Area: 1483 sq. km
Population: 9.4 million
Main Languages: Hindi, Urdu, Punjabi and English
Best time to visit: October to March

The capital city of India is a bustling metropolis that successfully combines in its folds - the ancient with the modern. Standing on the west-bank of the Yamuna River at the narrowest point between the Aravalli hills and the Himalayas, Delhi has commanded the strategically vital route from the Northwest frontier to the agriculturally rich Ganges plains. Its strategic location was one of the prime reasons why successive dynasties chose it as their seat of power.

Delhi has always been intrinsically identified with power and imperial sway. The eternal Yamuna River bears witness to the glorious and tumultuous 5,000-year-old history, which begins with the creation of Indraprastha by the Pandavas of the Mahabharata. It is not surprising that what constitutes Delhi today is really a conglomerate of eight cities, created between the 11th and 17th centuries around modern Delhi. The first four cities were towards the south around the area where the Qutab Minar stands starting with Lalkot or Qila Rai Pithora built by the Chauhan Rajputs in mid 11th century. This city was followed by Siri, built by Alauddin Khilji (near present day Hauz Khas) in the 12th century. The third was Tughlaqabad, now entirely in ruins, which stood 10km Southeast of the Qutab Minar. The fourth city dates from the 14th century and was known as Jahanpanah. It was also built by the Tughlaqs and it also stood near the Qutab Minar. The fifth city was Ferozabad, built by Feroz Shah Kotla. Some of its ruins are to found opposite the Raj Ghat on the banks of the Yamuna River. The sixth city Dinpanah was created by Sher Shah at Purana Qila (Old Fort) that stands in New Delhi today. The Mughal Emperor Shahjahan constructed the seventh city Shahjahanabad in the 17th century, thus shifting the Mughal Capital from Agra to Delhi. His city corresponds to the walled Old Delhi, which is still largely preserved. Finally the eighth city, New Delhi, which was constructed by the British and was officially, inaugurated in 1931. After Independence in 1947, New Delhi became the capital of India.

Delhi is in fact really two distinct cities; the energy and colour and the thronged bazaars and Mughal architecture of Old Delhi contrast with the formal splendour of New Delhi, whose wide boulevards offer ever-changing perspectives of Lutyen's landscaped city. The division in the Walled Old City and New Delhi also marks the division in life styles: the walled city retains its past traditions and one can get a glimpse of a past life with its many facets, colours and spells. New Delhi, in contrast, is a city trying to live up to the best of twenty-first century standards. Amidst the tall and modern skyscrapers the remnants of a bygone time in the form of its many monuments stand as silent reminders to the region's ancient legacy.

How to Reach -

Delhi is the most widely used entry point into the country, being on the route of most major airlines. It is well linked by rail, air and road to all parts of the country. Delhi has an extensive network of international and domestic flights. All the major airlines in the world fly through Delhi, and it is easily accessible from anywhere in the world. Domestic air links cover Delhi from all the major cities in the country. Trains run from all the parts of the country to Delhi and it is similarly well connected by road.

Places to See -

Old Delhi - the old walled city stands to the west of the Red Fort and was once surrounded by a defensive wall, fragments of which remain.

Red Fort (Lal Qila) - the citadel of Shahjahanabad was the opulent residence of Mughal Emperor Shahjahan. Built in red sandstone this imposing fort dates from the very peak of the Mughal power. Then the Yamuna River flowed right up the eastern edge of the fort. The Fort inside has a vaulted arcade, the Chatta Chowk (Covered Bazaar), the Naubat Khana or Drum House, where musicians used to play to herald the arrival of royalty, marble palaces, Royal Baths, the Moti Masjid (Pearl Mosque) and gardens. A portion of the fort is now under the Indian Army. Every evening there is a Sound and Light show in the fort premises that recreates events connected with the Red Fort

Jama Masjid - the great mosque of Old Delhi is both the largest congregational mosques in India and the final architectural extravagance of Shahjahan. Having three gateways, four angle towers and two minarets standing 40m high, the mosque is constructed of alternating vertical strips of red sandstone and white marble. The courtyard can hold about 25,000 people. Please remember to remove your shoes and those people considered unsuitable dressed (bare legs for either men or women) can hire robes at the northern gate.

Chandni Chowk - or Silver Square is the main street of Old Delhi and is a congested but colourful shopping bazaar. At its eastern end (towards the Red Fort) is a Digambara (sky-clad) Jain Temple, a Birds hospital, a Shiva temple and the Gurudwara Sis Ganj dedicated to the 9th Sikh Guru Teg Bahadur who was beheaded here by Mughal Emperor Aurangzeb. The western end is marked by the Fatehpuri Masjid, which was built by one of Shahjahan's wives. The bazaar is one of the largest and busiest wholesale and retail markets where you can find almost every thing - clothes, fabrics, watches, shoes, books, gems and jewellery so on and so forth.

Feroz Shah Kotla - located just outside the Old City between the Old and New Delhis are the ruins of Ferozabad the fifth city of Delhi. In the fortress-palace lies 13m high sandstone Ashoka Pillar inscribed with Ashoka's edicts. The remains of a mosque and a well can also be seen, but most of the ruins were used for the construction of later cities.

Raj Ghat - located on the banks of the Yamuna River, marks the cremation site of Mahatma Gandhi, the Father of the Nation. A simple black marble square platform marks the spot. The surrounding area is now a beautiful park. In the vicinity are cremated some of the Prime Ministers of India like Jawaharlal Nehru, Indira Gandhi and Rajiv Gandhi.

New Delhi

Connaught Place - is the stylish circular commercial and tourist centre of New Delhi. It is an architecturally uniform series of colonnaded buildings mainly devoted to shops, banks, restaurants, state tourist offices, airline offices and travel agencies.

Jantar Mantar - located in the vicinity of Connaught Place is an astronomical observatory with masonry instruments designed by the Maharaja Sawai Jai Singh II of Jaipur in 1725. It's a collection of salmon-coloured instruments including a sundial and others that plot the course of the heavenly bodies.

Laxmi Narayan Temple - popularly known as the Birla Mandir, is a modern Hindu temple built by the industrialist G.D. Birla in 1938. Located in the west of Connaught Place, the temple is dedicated to Lord Vishnu. The temple has well grafted gardens and is a popular respite for the locals.

Rajpath & India Gate - the Rajpath (Kingsway) is another focus of Lutyen's New Delhi. It's immensely broad and is flanked on either side by ornamental pools and gardens. The Republic Day Parade is held here every year. At its eastern end stands the impressive India Gate - the 42m high stone Arch of Triumph built as a memorial to the soldiers, who died in the campaigns of World War I. The Arch bears the names of 85,000 Indian army soldiers and a lamp burns eternally within it.

At the eastern end of the Rajpath lies the Rashtrapati Bhawan (President's House). The palace like building located atop the Raisina Hill, was built originally for the British Viceroy. It's an interesting blend of Mughal and western architecture. It is flanked on either side by the two large Secretariat buildings that now house the Finance and External Affairs ministries. To the west of the Bhawan is a Mughal Garden that is opened to the public only in the month of February. Also near the Rajpath, just north of it, is the Sansad Bhawan or the Parliament House. It's a grand circular colonnaded structure 171m in diameter.

Humayun's Tomb - built in the mid-16th century by Haji Begum, the senior wife of Mughal Emperor Humayun, this tomb is a wonderful example of early Mughal architecture. It is considered to be the predecessor of Taj Mahal. The Emperor along with his wife and other members lay buried here. it is built in the classic Persian char bagh style - a central tomb surrounded by formal gardens.

Qutab Minar Complex - located towards the south of New Delhi, the monuments in this complex date from the onset of Muslim rule in India and are fine examples of early Afghan architecture. The complex is dominated by the 73m high Qutab Minar (Victory Tower) that tapers from a 15m diameter base to just 2.5 at the top. Built by Qutab-ud-din Aibak, this tower dates back to the 13th century and is one of the greatest bequests of Islamic culture. There is the Quwwat-ul-Islam or Might of Islam mosque, the first mosque to be built in India. Initially constructed by Qutb-ud-din Aibak, it has had a number of additions and extensions over the centuries. The mosque was built with materials obtained from demolishing about 27 temples. In the courtyard of the mosque is a 7m high ancient iron pillar. The amazing thing about this 2000-year-old pillar is that it has not rusted till date. Other monuments in the complex are the Alai Darwaza, the main entrance to the whole complex, the Alai Minar, the tombs of Iltutmish and Imam Zamin and a madarsa (religious school) of Alauddin Khilji.

Bahai Temple - is an architectural marvel constructed in the shape of the Lotus flower by the followers of the Bahai faith. Completed in 1986, it is build of white marble and set among pools and gardens. Adherents of any faith are free to visit the temple and pray or meditate silently according to their own religion. The structure is in lotus shape so it often called the lotus temple.

Some Other Sights -

National Museum - located just south of Rajpath, the Museum has a good collection of Indian bronzes, terracottas, wood sculptures dating to the 2nd and 3rd centuries BC, exhibits from the Vijayanagar empire of South India, miniature and mural paintings. It also has the largest collection of artifacts dating to the Indus Valley Civilization.

National Gallery of Modern Art - standing near the India Gate, this Gallery was formerly the Delhi Residence of the Maharaja of Jaipur. It has an excellent collection of works by both Indian and colonial artists.

Safdarjung's Tomb - located beside the Safdarjung airport in New Delhi, this tomb was built by the Nawab of Avadh for his father Safdarjung. This marble-domed mausoleum is one of the last examples of Mughal architecture and tells a saga of the last remnants of a dying empire.

Purana Qila - or the Old Fort is believed to have been the site of the Pandavas Indraprastha, the original Delhi. The Afghan ruler Sher Shah who briefly interrupted the Mughal rule by defeating Humayun, completed the fort during his reign from 1538-45, before Humayun regained control. Within the fort is a red sandstone tower, the Sher Mandal, which was later used by Humayun as a library. Just beyond it is the Qila-I-Kuhran mosque, built by Sher Shah. There is also a small archaeological museum just inside the main gate and good views of New Delhi from atop the gate.

ISKCON Temple - located near the Lotus temple and completed recently in 1998, this temple is dedicated to the Lord Krishna and was built by the Hare Rama Hare Krishna cult followers, the members of International Society of Krishna Consciousness (ISKCON). This complex is elegantly built and is one of the largest temple complexes in India.

Hauz Khas Village - located midway between the Safdarjung airport in New Delhi and the Qutab Minar complex, this urban village surrounded by parkland was once the reservoir (hauz) for the second city of Delhi, Siri. The interesting sights here are Feroz Shah's tomb and the remains of an ancient college. The village complex is now one of the happening places in Delhi with several good restaurants, shops and designer boutiques.

Rail Museum - located in the Diplomatic Enclave of New Delhi, this museum will be of great interest to anyone fascinated by India's exotic collection of railway engines. The exhibit includes the Fairy Queen, an 1855 steam engine that still chugs between Delhi and Alwar and a large number of oddities like the saloons of the personal railways of many Maharajas.

Gurudwara Bangla Sahib - located near Connaught Place, this was the royal palace of Raja Jai Singh. He dedicated this palace to the sacred memory of the 8th Sikh Guru Harkishanji.

Around Delhi -

Suraj Kund - located 18k m from Delhi in the neighbouring state of Haryana is a small ancient pond (kund) and the venue for the annual Crafts Mela (fair) that is held in February. This fair gives the artisans an opportunity to show their skills on the spot and customers get to see their working style. Each year the fair is held on a particular state theme. There are fashion shows and puppet shows, which represent the amalgamation of the traditional art with the modern trends.

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