Area: 3,701 sq. Km
Population: 1.3 million
Capital: Panjim (Panaji)
Main Languages: Konkani, Marathi, Hindi, English and Portuguese
Best time to visit: October to May

Goa is a small tropical paradise set on the Konkan coast, on the Western Ghats, along the Arabian Sea. It's a tiny emerald land on the West Coast of India situated between the borders of the States of Maharashtra and Karnataka. The name Goa is derived from the Konkani word 'Goyan', which means a patch of tall grass. This former Portuguese enclave has enjoyed a prominent place in the travellers' lexicon for many years with its magnificent palm fringed beaches. Yet it offers much more than just the hedonism of sun, sand and sea. It has a character quite distinct from the rest of India.

Goa's history stretches back to the 3rd century BC when it formed a part of the Mauryan empire. Later at the beginning of the Christian era, it was ruled by the Satavahanas of Kolhapur and later by the Chalukyas of Badami took over the governance. Other dynasties followed, including a short-lived Muslim invasion, until the Vijayanagar Empire established itself for almost a century. This era, too, ended with the arrival of the Sultans of Gulbarga, around 1469 AD, from whom the rule passed on to Adil Shah of Bijapur. Goa soon became the bone of contention between the Dutch, English, French and Portuguese, all vying for its possession. Ultimately, in 1510, the Portuguese conquered Goa. After ruling for about four centuries, in 1961, fourteen years after India's independence, the Portuguese were ejected from the subcontinent.

With the rule of the Portuguese for over 450 years and the consequential influence of the Latin culture, Goa presents a somewhat different picture to the foreign visitor than any other part of the country. Not only the proportion of Christians (almost all of whom are Catholics) in the total population of Goa is much higher than any other States; the general way of living is also markedly different. Western influence is evident in the dress and food habits, and the general life of the people is quiet and peaceful. A striking feature of Goa is the harmonious relationship between the two principal religious communities, the Hindus and the Catholics, who have lived together peacefully for generations.

Portuguese style whitewashed churches, lush green paddy fields surrounding villages and hamlets, dense coconut palm groves, and crumbling forts guarding rocky capes makes up the Goan landscape. Markets are lively. Siesta is widely observed during the hot afternoons. With some of India's finest beaches, Goa is famous for its seafood, cashew and locally brewed feni (wine), for its song and dance and merriment, and above all for its peaceful and serene atmosphere.

Goa nearly splits into two districts - North and South Goa. The North has the state capital Panjim and the former capital of Old Goa and a string of beaches running right up to the coast to Maharashtra. South Goa has a few beaches and a sprinkling of up market resorts. The main town of the region is Mapusa, which is the transport hub. Goa's Dabolim airport is also located here.

How to Reach -

You can fly to Goa from some major cities like Mumbai, Delhi, Bangalore and Cochin. Goa is also conveniently located on the Konkan railway. By road, driving down from Mumbai is smooth as well as picturesque, as Goa is situated right on the highway. There is also a Catamaran service between Mumbai and Goa from October to May.

Old Goa
Panjim

OLD GOA

Old Goa is the state's showpiece and the only remnant of the massive and overpowering Portuguese presence. Half a dozen imposing churches and cathedrals (among the largest in Asia) are all that remain of the Portuguese capital that was once said to rival Lisbon in magnificence. In its heyday, the 1500's, it was the largest and most flourishing of the great Asian cities and rightly called `Goa Dourada' (Golden Goa). The monuments and cathedrals today represent just a fraction of the urban development that was Old Goa.

Churches of Old Goa -

Se Cathedral - is the largest of the churches in Old Goa. It was built during the 16th century for the Dominicans and paid for by the royal treasury out of the proceeds of the sale of crown property. The building's style is Portuguese-Gothic with a Tuscan exterior and Corinthian interior. The tower houses a famous bell, one of the largest in Goa, often called the Golden Bell because of its rich sound. The main altar is dedicated to St. Catherine of Alexandria and the paintings on either side of it, depicts scenes from her life and martyrdom.

Convent & Church of St. Francis of Assisi - this is one of the most interesting buildings in Old Goa. It contains gilded and carved woodwork, old murals depicting scenes from the life of St. Francis and a floor substantially made of carved gravestones - complete with family coat of arms dating back to the early 16th century. A convent behind this church is now the Archaeological Museum. It houses portraits of the Portuguese viceroys and sculptured fragments from Hindu temple sites in Goa like stone Vetal images from the animist cult that flourished in this part of India centuries ago.

Basilica of Bom Jesus - is famous throughout the Roman Catholic world as it contains the tomb and mortal remains of St. Francis Xavier, Goa's patron saint, who in 1541 was given the task of spreading Christianity among the subjects of the Portuguese colonies in the east. The remains of his body are housed in a silver casket and taken out every 10 years for public veneration. The next exposition is scheduled for November 2004. St. Francis's body was brought to Goa almost 150 years after his death. In 1946 it became the first church of India to be elevated to the status of Minor Basilica. It is the best specimen of baroque architecture in India. Apart from the richly gilded altars, the interior of the church is remarkable for its simplicity.

Church of St. Cajetan - is built on the lines of St. Peter's in Rome. This church was built by Italian friars of the Order of Theatines, who were sent by Pope Urban III to teach Christianity in the Kingdom of Golconda near Hyderabad. The friars were not permitted to work in Golconda hence the settled in Old Goa in 1640. Interesting to note are the interiors decorated in pure, unrestrained baroque and the intricately carved pulpit. Of interest is the covered well inside that indicates that the site was one perhaps a temple.

Church of St Augustine Ruins - all that is let of the church is the enormous 46m tower that served as a belfry and formed part of the façade of the church. It was constructed in 1602 by Augustinian friars. It was abandoned due to the repressive policies of the Portuguese government, resulting in the eviction of many religious orders from Goa.

Church & Convent of St. Monica - is a huge three-storey laterite building completed in 1627, only to burn down nine years later. Once known as the Royal Monastery, due to the royal patronage that it enjoyed. The building is now utilized by the Mater Dei Institute as a nunnery.

Other Sights -

Other monuments of minor interest in Old Goa are - the Viceroy's Arch, Gate of Adil Shah's Palace, Chapel of St Anthony, Chapel of St. Catherine and the Church of Our Lady of the Rosary.

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PANJIM

Panjim or Panaji as it is also called, is one of India's smallest and most pleasant state capitals. Built on the south bank of the Mandovi River, it officially became the state capital when Old Goa was finally abandoned in 1843. It was only a small fishing village four centuries ago. It is still a midget town, but one of the most beautiful in India. Rising on the wooded terraces of the Altinho Hill, the town slopes down to Mandovi river on one side to the Arabian Sea on the other. The old town has preserved its Portuguese heritage remarkably well; there are narrow winding streets, old houses with overhanging balconies with red tiled roofs, white washed churches and numerous small bars and cafés. Though there are no great attractions in Panjim, the city does have enough character to make a pleasant visit and an ideal base to explore the state.

Places to See -

Our Lady of the Immaculate Conception - is Panjim's main church and a very striking edifice. It stands above the square in the main part of the town and is reached by several intersecting stairs. The original consecrated in 1541. Panjim was the first port of call for voyages from Lisbon, so Portuguese sailors would visit this church to give thanks for a safe crossing before continuing to Old Goa. Mass is held here daily in English, Konkani and Portuguese.

Goa State Museum - opened in 1996, this modern well laid out museum has several galleries featuring Christian art, Hindu and Jain sculptures and bronzes and paintings from all over India.

Fontainhas & Sao Tomé - located just west of the Ourem River, these are old Portuguese districts and are Panjim's most interesting areas. The narrow cobbled streets, tiled buildings, shuttered windows and tiny over hanging balconies present an atmosphere more reminiscent of the Mediterranean than of India. At the end of the street in Fontainhas is the Chapel of St. Sebastian. Although it dates only from the 1880's, it contains a number of interesting features in particular a striking crucifix that originally stood in the Palace of the Inquisition in Old Goa.

The Secretariat - is an interesting building. Dating from the 16th century, it was originally the palace of Adil Shah, the ruler of Bijapur and in 1759 it became the viceroy's official residence. There is a bizarre statue of a man apparently about to strangle a woman nearby. This is the statue of Abbé Faria, a famous hypnotist.

Dona Paula - 4km from Panjim, it is located near the rocky point between the Mandovi and Zuari rivers at the place where these two rivers meet the Arabian Sea. The town has grown up around a fishing hamlet. There is a small and peaceful palm fringed beach with casuarina groves. It is named Dona Paula de Menezes, the Viceroy's daughter who reputedly jumped from the cliffs when refused permission to marry a fisherman. It is a secluded bay with a fine view of the Zuari estuary and the Marmagao harbour and an idyllic spot to relax and sunbathe. Water scooter facilities are available here.

Beaches of North Goa -

The beaches of North Goa extend from Fort Agauda in an almost uninterrupted 30km sand stretch to the border with Maharashtra. Despite the unending stretch of sand, each section has its own distinctive character. The difference reflects in part the nature of the settlements dotted at intervals behind it.

Miramar - is the nearest beach to Panjim City, about 3kms. It is lovely golden beach of soft sand girdled with palm trees and is one of the most popular beaches. From here one has an excellent view of the Fort Agauda fort just across the Mandovi river.

Sinquerim - 13km from Panjim is the beach below Fort Agauda. It is one of the best beaches in Goa with international class facilities for water-skiing, para-sailing, fishing, scuba diving and windsurfing. It also has a magnificent 17th century fort, which has now been converted into a prison, the Agauda Jail. The Fort was built in 1612 to keep the Dutch Navy at bay. It is the strongest of the Portuguese coastal forts.

Candolim - has the least developed part of the beach north of Agauda. If you, wish to be away from the crowds but within reach of good food, try the beach near D'mello's & Oceanic just north. The beach itself is long & straight, backed by scrub-covered dunes with little shelter.

Calangute - is the busiest beach and one of the most popular beaches in Goa. It was once the Mecca of al expatriate hippies.

Baga - sandwiched between Calangute and Anjuna, has a little more character and interesting landscape. It is a secluded and pleasant beach, with good recreational facilities like river cruises, water-skiing, yachting and fishing. It is handy for those wanting to commute to the nightlife at Anjuna and Vagator.

Anjuna - This is one of Goa's most popular beaches known for its night beach parties and the rave scene. It's famous for its Wednesday Flea Market, worth exploring for jewelry, souvenirs and ethnic clothes.

Chapora & Vagator - this is one of the most beautiful and interesting parts of Goa's coastline. Much of the inhabited area nestles under a canopy of dense coconut palms. The Chapora Village is dominated by a rocky hill on top of which sits an old Portuguese fort. The views from its ramparts are excellent. Secluded sandy coves are found all the way around the northern side of this rocky outcrop. It is a relatively quiet and laid-back area, though it can sometimes get crowded with day-trippers.

Arambol & Terekhol - these are the northern most beaches of Goa. Terekhol has a wonderful fort, which has now been converted into a rest house. Arambol is quite a remote beach but the seashore is beautiful and the main beach is a good place to swim. There are also attractive bays further north

Beaches of South Goa -

The southern beaches are less distinctive than those of the north. Government regulation have kept all the hotels back from the sea, but the character of the unbroken wide sand nonetheless also varies. The road runs slightly inland, with spurs leading down to the main section of beach. Some, like Benaulim and Varca are little more than deserted stretches of dune-backed sand, with isolated fishing hamlets.

Bogmalo - 8kms from the town of Vasco and 4kms from the airport, is a small sandy cove dominated by a five star Park Plaza resort.

Colva Beach - 6km from Margao, Colva is the pride of Salcette and the only rival to Calangute in its scenic beauty and grandeur. The beach has beautiful sand, coconut palms gently swaying in the breeze and the blue - green waters. It's the longest beach, about 20km, in Goa.

Benaulim - is the tranquil and pleasant end of Colva. It is a pretty fishing village, with quaint old Portuguese houses, a secluded beach and perfect for a quiet little break. The small Church of St John the Baptist, on a hill beyond the village is worth a visit.

Other minor beaches of the area are - Betul, which offers total seclusion, Varca, Cavelossim and Palolem

Temples of Goa -

Shri Mangesh Temple - 22km from Panjim, near the inland town of Ponda, this 18th century temple is located on a hillock. This is one of the most important Hindu temples in Goa and a local landmark with its lofty white tower. Dedicated to Lord Shiva, the temple complex is architecturally typical of the highly distinctive Goan Hindu temple style.

Shri Mahalsa - 1km from the Mangesh Temple, this temple is popular with people of all faiths because the deity Gomantaka is believed to fulfil the wishes of all her devotees.

Shri Nagesh Temple - dedicated to Lord Shiva as Nagesh (God of serpents), this temple is situated in Bandora village, about 4km to the east of Ponda. The temple has a gallery on both sides that contains exquisite specimens of intricate woodcarvings of the events of Ramayana on one side and wooden images of Astadikpal and Gandharva on the other.

Shri Shanta Durga Temple - set in a picturesque forest clearing on a hillside at Queula, this temple is 3km southwest from Ponda. It is one of the largest and most famous of Goa's temples dedicated to the consort of Lord Shiva as Shanta Durga (Goddess of Peace). The form of Durga was so named because she mediated in a great quarrel between Shiva and Vishnu, and brought back peace in the universe. This temple sports an unusual, almost pagoda-like structure.

Shri Bhagavati Temple - located 26km from Panjim City, this temple is believed to be 500 years old. Two life-sized images of elephants carved from black stone guard its entrance and there is an imposing statue of Goddess Bhagavati Ashtabhuja to whom the temple is dedicated.

Shri Chandranath - located at Quepem this temple is built on a 350m high hill of the same name, the Chandranath Hill. The main attractions of this temple are the rock-carved Shiv lingas from which water oozes on a full moon day.

Some other temples - Shri Damodar temple at Zambaulim (sacred to both Hindus and the Christians), Shri Kalikadevi Mandir in Bicholim (almost 800 years old), Shri Mallikarjuna, in Canacona (60 deities surround the temple).

Mosques of Goa -

Jama Masjid - built in 19th century it is an elegant mosque of harmonious proportions and elegant simplicity.

Safa Masjid - located in Ponda, is the oldest and most famous of mosques in Goa. It was built by Adil Shah of Bijapur in 1560. Near the mosque is a well-constructed masonry tank, surrounded by an extensive garden with many fountains. The festivals are celebrated here with great pomp and show and attended by a large number of people.

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