Area: 1191,791 sq. km
Population: 44.9 million
Capital: Bangalore
Main Language: Kannada
Best time to visit: September to February

The enchanting perfume of sandal and agarbattis (incense sticks), the aroma of fresh, roasted coffee beans, the heady fragrance of the "Mysore Mallige" and a thousand roses blooming..... Karnataka is truly a land of fragrance. A land that has all the ingredients of a great holiday site. A relaxed length of the Arabian Sea coastline, the majestic rocks of the Deccan, thick, lush tropical forests, an unimaginable variety of trees, plants, flowers, animals and birds. And above all, a sense of history and culture that is all pervasive.

The State consists of a narrow coastal strip backed by the monsoon-drenched Western Ghats and a drier cooler interior plateau that turns arid in the far north. It's a major producer of coffee, spices and betel nut and supplies 60% of the country's silk.

A multitude of religions, cultures and kingdoms have unrolled across the terrain of Karnataka, beginning in the 3rd century BC when Chandragupa Maurya, India's first great Emperor retreated to Sravanbelgola after he renounced worldly ways and embraced Jainism. In the 6th century, the Chalukyas built some of the earliest Hindu temples near Badami. All later South Indian temples stemmed from their designs. Other important dynasties, such as the Cholas and the Gangas, have also played their part in Karnataka's history, but it was the Hoysalas, who ruled between the 11th and 14th centuries and who left the most vivid evidence of their presence. They were followed by the Vijayanagar rulers with their capital at Hampi and then by the Wodeyars of Mysore. The Wodeyars ruled Mysore until Independence when they were pensioned off. They were enlightened and progressive rulers, so popular with their subjects that the Maharaja became the first governor of the post-Independence state. The boundaries of Mysore state were redrawn on linguistic grounds in 1956 and the extended Kannada-speaking state of Greater Mysore was established. This was renamed Karnataka in 1972.

Karnataka is a state of charming contrasts, with the modern blending harmoniously with the old. It has, also, some of the most magnificent monuments, temples, palaces and beaches in the country.

How to Reach -

Bangalore, the capital is the main entry point of Karnataka and is well connected with all major cities of India by air, rail and road.

AIHOLE

Aihole was the first capital of the early Chalukyas before they shifted to Badami. It is widely regarded as the birthplace of Indian temple architectural styles, and the site of the first built temples, as distinct from those carved out of solid rock. It has over a hundred temples, scattered around the village - half within the fort walls. The oldest temple here is, perhaps, the Lad Khan temple dating back to the 5th century. This temple was originally a royal assembly hall and marriage mandapa and was chosen as the abode of a Muslim prince, Lad Khan.

The Durga Fort Temple is notable for its semi-circular apse, elevated plinth, and the gallery that encircles the sanctum. Images of Chamundi Devi trampling the buffalo demon, Narasimha and Shiva abound here. The temples within the fort are fine examples of Hoysala, Buddhist, Jain, Dravida, Nagara and Rekhanagara styles. The Museum behind the Durga Temple contains further examples of the Chalukyan sculptors' work.

The Hutchimalli Temple has a sculpture of Lord Vishnu sitting atop a cobra. The Ravana Phadi Cave dating back to the 6th century, dedicated to Lord Shiva, is cut from a large wedge of sandstone. Shiva in several forms is carved both inside and outside the cave. Other remarkable sites are the Konta Temple Complex of four temples, the Uma Maheswari Temple, which houses a beautifully carved Brahma sitting on a lotus, the austere Jain Meguti Temple and the two-storied Buddhist Temple. Within the Buddhist shrine, is a tranquilly smiling Buddha on the ceiling, with the Bodhi Tree sprouting from his head.

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BADAMI

Situated in North Karnataka, Badami was the capital of the Chalukya Empire during the 6th and 8th centuries. Now a small rural town, set in beautiful countryside at the foot of a red sandstone ridge, Badami is well known for its several earliest and finest examples of Dravidian temples and rock-cut caves. The Chalukyas are to be credited with pioneering a new architectural style that combined the best of two distinct styles - the North Indian Indo Aryan Nagara style and the South Indian Dravidian style. Though principally promoters of the Vedic culture, the Chalukyas were tolerant of all sects and elements of Shaivism, Vaishnavism, Jainism and even Buddhism can be found in many of their temples. In its ancient temples and forts, Badami preserves an important chapter in the history of architecture, in Karnataka.

The Cave Temples - are cut into the cliff face of a red sandstone hill. These temples display India's range of religious sects. There are four main caves. Each has a sanctum, a hall, an open verandah and pillars. What makes these cave temples remarkable, are the large number of exquisite carvings and sculptures. There are many beautiful murals as well. Cave 1, dedicated to Lord Shiva is the oldest of the four. One of the many masterpieces to be found here is the 18-armed image of Lord Shiva as Nataraja striking 81 dance poses. Cave 2 is dedicated to Lord Vishnu. Here the lord is shown in his 'Varaha' (pig headed) incarnation. Cave 3 is also dedicated to Lord Vishnu and contains some of the best sculptures in the complex. Cave 4 is dedicated to Jainism. It is the smallest of the set and has the images of Suparshvanatha, the 7th tirthankar and Adinath, the first tirthankar.

The Bhutanatha Temples - are the other attractions of Badami. Located on the bank of the ancient Bhutanatha Lake, astride whose shores the caves stand, is the shrine of Nagamma, the local serpent goddess, within a massive tamarind tree. Nearby, are two Shiva temples, which deify Him as Bhutanatha (God of Souls).

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BANDIPUR NATIONAL PARK

The Bandipur National Park, located 80km south of Mysore on the Mysore to Ooty road, covers about 865 sq. km and is part of a larger national park that also includes the neighbouring wildlife sanctuaries of Mudumalai in Tamil Nadu and Waynad in Kerala. This was once the Mysore Maharaja's private game reserve that established it in 1931. The Moyar River, one of the three rivers flowing through the Park, acts as a boundary between the Park and the Mudumalai Sanctuary. The Moyar gorge (260m deep) provides a fabulous view of the surroundings.

Nestled in the foothill of the Nilgiris, Bandipur offers superb scenery of mountains, gorges and undisturbed forest and a myriad of flora and fauna. This sanctuary is also one of the 15 sanctuaries selected across India for Project Tiger, a scheme launched in 1973, by the World Wildlife Fund for Nature, to save the tiger and its habitat. Covered with a mix of deciduous forests, evergreen forests and scrub, Bandipur has a fairly open forest area, making it easy for visitors to spot wildlife. The prominent fauna of this reserve, include the Asian elephant, gaur (Indian bison), sambar, chital (spotted deer), sloth bears, four horned antelope, wild boar, black naped hare, Indian porcupine and of course the elusive tiger. Bandipur is also inhabited by a variety of birds.

The best time to see the wildlife is March to April, but the most comfortable time is to visit is winter (November to February).

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BANGALORE

Bangalore, the capital of Karnataka, is a vibrant cosmopolitan city, a major industrial and commercial centre of the country. Bangalore is also known as the 'Silicon Valley' of the country, the nerve centre of India's software industry. Despite being one of Asia's fastest growing cities, Bangalore remains one of the most elegant metropolises in India. A well planned city, with tree-lined avenues, a large number of parks, gardens and lakes. Situated 1000m above sea level; it is blessed with a salubrious climate.

Bangalore is said to have received its name after an old woman living near here served a humble dish of boiled beans to a lost Hoysala king. Kempe Gowda formally founded the 'town of boiled beans' in the early 16th century. Two centuries later, it became an important fortress city under Hyder Ali and Tipu Sultan. The British moved their regional headquarters from Srirangapatnam to Bangalore in 1831 and the town began to take on the familiar ordered look of a British cantonment. Bangalore's rapid growth began I the 1960's when the government located key defence and telecommunications research establishments here. Over the following decades, it became the science and technology centre of India and home to many multinational companies.

The city attracts people in large numbers, from all over the country, and abroad, who come to look for better job opportunities and higher education. Surprisingly, all this frantic industrial expansion and increase in the population, has not robbed Bangalore of its essential old-world appeal. It's also regarded as one of India's a most progressive and liberal city as far as social attitudes go .It is, in the true sense, a very 'happening' city.

Places to See -

Lalbagh Botanical Gardens - is a pleasant 96-hectare park in the southern suburbs of Bangalore. It was laid out in the 18th century by Hyder Ali and developed by his son Tipu Sultan. It contains many labelled centuries old trees, one of India's largest collections of rare tropical and sub tropical plants, a glasshouse modeled on London's Crystal Palace, one of Kempe Gowda's Watch Towers, and a surreal lawn clock.

Vidhana Soudha - is one of Bangalore's most imposing buildings. It is located at the northwestern end of Cubbon Park and is a massive granite structure built in the neo-Dravidian style. Built in 1954, it houses the State Legislature and the Secretariat.

Cubbon Park & Museums -laid out in 1864, this 120-hectare park is one of the main 'lungs' of the city. It's a pleasant escape from the surrounding urban chaos. Within its premises are the Public Library, the neo Classical High Court, two municipal museums and an aquarium. There is the Government Museum, one of the oldest in India established in 1886 and the Visvesvaraya Technological & Industrial Museum.

Located near the City Market, are the remains of a fort dating back to the days of Hyder Ali, and also, Tipu Sultan's summer palace. The palace, an elaborately decorated structure, has ornate arches and minarets. A museum within, has on display, the life and times of Tipu Sultan and Hyder Ali

Nandi (Bull) Temple - situated on Bugle Hill, this is one of Bangalore's oldest temples. Built by Kempe Gowda in the Dravidian style in the 16th century, it contains a huge granite monolith of Nandi, the holy Bull.

Fort & Tipu Sultan's Palace - Kempe Gowda built a mud-brick defence structure on this site in1537. In the 18th century Hyder Ali and Tipu Sultan solidly rebuilt this in stone. It's a sturdy little fort though much of it was destroyed during the wars with the British. Inside the Fort is a Ganesh temple, whose outer walls have carving on the episodes connected with Lord Krishna. Near the Fort is Tipu Sultan's palace notable for its elegant teak pillars. It was begun by Hyder Ali and completed by Tipu Sultan in 1791.

The city also has its share of pleasant lakes, the principal amongst them being, the Ulsoor Lake, which also has boating facilities. The other lakes around Bangalore are the Sankey Tank, the Yediyur Tank and the Lal Bagh Lake.

Around Bangalore -

Whitefield Ashram - located about 20km east of Bangalore, this is the summer ashram of Sri Sathya Sai Baba, where he is usually in residence in March and April and June and July.

Bannerghatta National Park - located 21km south of Bangalore, is home to a small population of leopards. The Park also houses a mini zoo, a crocodile and snake farm. There's also a staged 'safari' where you can see lions, tigers and elephants in a fenced in area.

Nrityagram - is a dance village located 30km northwest of Bangalore, at Hesaraghatt. It was established in the early 1990's to revive Indian Classical Dance. Under the auspices of well-known Odissi dancer, Protima Gauri, it offers the long-term study of classical dance and its allied subjects, such as choreography, philosophy, music, mythology and painting. The village is rustic in design, and blends with the bucolic surroundings. Near the village is the Hesaraghatta Lake, a manmade lake, which is a popular tourist spot.

Nandi Hill (1615m) - is one of the most majestic places in the region and is located about 68km north of Bangalore. It was a popular summer retreat even in Tipu Sultan's days. Tipu's Drop, a 600m-high cliff face here, not only provided a good view over the surrounding countryside but was also a convenient place to dispose off enemies. There are also two notable Chola temples here.

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BELGAUM

Located on a rather bald plateau in the northwest corner of the state, Belgaum was a regional capital of the Rattas who shifted to this place from Saundatti in the 12th and 13th centuries. Lying at the border of the States of Maharashtra and Goa, it is one of the oldest towns in the state. Originally known as Velugram (Bamboo Village), Belgaum City is a crossroad of cultures due to its peculiar geographical location. Nestling in the foothills of the enchanting Sahayadri Range, at an altitude of about 779m, 100km from the Arabian Sea with the River Markandeya flowing nearby, Belgaum is unique. Its natural beauty and environment are a world of contrast and harmonies with swift and kaleidoscopic change in topography, vegetation and climate. Its hinterland offers a rich resource mix attracting people as tourist, settlers, job-seekers & entrepreneurs, making it a veritable paradise or a "poor mans Switzerland".

Places to See -

The Fort - does one Ratta Officer shape an old oval in 1204. Mahatma Gandhi was locked up here once. Outside the fort is a colourful Cattle Market.

There are two interesting Jain temples, one with an extremely intricate roof, while the other has some fine carvings of musicians. There is also a mosque, the Masjid-Sata that dates from 1519. The Watch Tower located on Ganapath Galli (lane) is the centre of the town and provides a panorama of the flat countryside and distant hills. Sunset Point, on the old racetrack road also offers fine views.

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BELUR & HALEBID

The Hoysala temples at Belur and Halebid along with the one at Somnathpur near Mysore, are the cream of the most artistically exuberant periods of Hindu cultural development. Their sculptural decoration rivals that of Khajuraho and Konark or the best of European Gothic Art.

BELUR - Situated on the bank of river Yagachi, the quaint hamlet of Belur was the first capital of Hoysala Empire, before it was shifted to nearby Halebid. The Hoysala, who ruled a large kingdom between the Rivers Krishna and Cauvery apart from being great warriors, also patronized culture and art and encouraged the artisans to rival each other.

Chennekeshava Temple - is the main temple in Belur and is only one at the three major Hoysala sites (the other two being Halebid and Somnathpur), that is still in daily use. Begun in 1116 to commemorate Hoysala's victory over the Cholas at Talakad, it took a century to complete. It is said that every major deity in the Hindu pantheon is represented on this temple. What is remarkable about this shrine is its compact structure, and perfect proportions. The wealth of sculptured friezes is simply unbelievable, since from the base to the projected eaves, every inch of available wall surface is covered with the most exquisitely sculptured images. On the inside of the temple, superb carving decorates the hand-lathe-turned pillars and bracket-figures on the ceiling. Each round filigreed pillar is different in details. Outside the temple, on the vimana, the Hoysala sculptors have surpassed themselves - unending rows of nearly 650 elephants, horses lions, birds and warriors. The larger panels of the wall sport scenes depicting the great epics - Ramayana and Mahabharata.

The huge walled court at Belur contains three other smaller temples - the Channigaraya temple, Soumyanayaki temple and the Andal temple. These temples also contain splendid pieces of sculpture.

HALEBID - located 17km east of Belur, was the ancient capital of the Hoysala Empire. Founded in the early 11th century as Dwarasamudram (Gateway to the seas), it was destroyed by the armies of the Delhi Sultanate in 1311 and 1327 AD, after which it was deserted and later renamed Halebid (Old Capital).

The Hoysaleswara temple at Halebid, the largest of the Hoysala temples, was started in 1121 AD, about 10 years after the temple at Belur, but despite 86 years of labour, it was never completed. Nevertheless it is easily the most outstanding example of Hoysala art. Every centimeter of the outside walls and much of the insides are covered with an endless variety of Hindu deities, stylised birds and animals and friezes depicting the life and times of the Hoysala rulers.

Halebid also has a few other temples - the Kedareswara, though a dilapidated shrine, has is a classic example of Indian temple architecture. There is also an enclosure containing three Jain bastis (temples), the main being the Parsvanath Temple, with its 32-pillared pavilion. The 14 feet high image of Parsvanath has a seven-hooded cobra over its head. The two other shrines are those of Adinath and Shantinatha, though smaller, are elegant structures.

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BIDAR

Located in the extreme northeastern corner of the State, this walled town was the capital of the Bahmani kings in the early 15th century and later the capital of the Barid Shahi dynasty. Bidar has lent its name to the handicraft bidriware, a form of damascening that the Persian craftsmen of Bidar came up. This involved moulding imaginative blends of blackened zinc, copper, lead and tin, which are then embossed and overlaid or inlaid with pure silver. The effect of the delicate silver filigree against the ebony toned background is quite striking.

As you enter the town, the splendid 15th century Fort welcomes you. There are three palaces within the Fort - the Rangeen Mahal, Chini Mahal and the Turkish Mahal. The Rangeen Mahal was the royal residence and has elaborately carved wooden pillars and Persian artwork.

In the middle of the town is located the Khwaja Mahmud Gawan Madrasa, which has a few colourful remains of typical Islamic mosaics. The huge domed tombs of the Bahmani and Barid Kings are also worth seeing. These abandoned structures dot the countryside and have an enticingly desolate aura. Near Ali Barid's tomb is the Nanak Jhera Gurudwara, which according to a legend, was visited by Guru Nanak when the land was in the grip of famine. Hence Bidar is also an important pilgrim centre for devotees of Guru Nanak.

Other Attractions of the town are - the Solah Kambh Masjid, which is the oldest Muslim building in Bidar, and one of the largest in India. Right at the heart of Bidar stands the Chaubara, a 71ft tower, from the top of which one can get a splendid view of the surrounding area.

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BIJAPUR

Bijapur is a town blessed by scattered ruins and still intact gems of the 15th to 17th century Muslim architecture. It was the capital of the Adil Shahi dynasty (1489-1686), one of the splinter states formed when the Bahamani Muslim kingdom broke up in 1482. Bijapur is strongly Muslim in character. The town is dotted with mosques, mausoleums, palaces and fortifications. A formidable fort surrounds the town, which has some of the finest mosques in the Deccan and retains a pleasant atmosphere.

Places to See -

Gol Gumbaz - built in 1659, is the mausoleum of Mohammed Adil Shah and some members of his family. Its vast dome is said to be the second largest dome, unsupported by pillars, in the world, after St. Peter's in the Vatican City of Rome. It is constructed in such a way that even a pin drop can be heard distinctly from across a space of 38 m, in the Whispering Gallery. The acoustics here are such that any sound made is said to be repeated 10 times over. In the surrounding ornamental gardens is an archeological museum.

Ibrahim Roza -This mosoleum was erected by Ibrahim Adil Shah II (1580-1626) for his queen Taj Sultana, at the height of Bijapur's prosperity. The emphasis here is on elegance and delicacy, unlike the immensity of the Gol Gumbaz. Its 24m high minarets are said to have inspired those of the Taj Mahal. Its one of the few monuments with substantial stone filigree and other decorative sculptural work. Interred here are Ibrahim Adil Shah, his queen and some other family members.

The Citadel - surrounded by its own fortified walls and wide moat in the city centre, the Citadel once contained the palaces, pleasure gardens and durbar hall of the Adil Shahi kings. Although most of them are in ruins, there are still some impressive fragments. The best of which is the Gagan Mahal built by Adil Shah to serve as the dual purpose of a royal residence and a durbar hall. Nearby is the Sat Manzil, Mohammed Adil Shah's seven storey palace, though substantially in ruins. Then there are the Jala Manzil, a delicate water pavilion surrounded by secluded courts and gardens and the Bara Kaman, the ruined mausoleum of Ali Roza that has graceful arches.

Jama Masjid - considered one of the finest in India, is a finely proportioned mosque that was constructed by Ali Adil Shah I (1557-80). It sprawls over an area of about 1,16,300sq.m and has graceful arches, a fine dome and a large inner courtyard with room for 2250 worshippers, spaces for them marked out in black squares on the polished floor. The Mosque's sacred alcove has the Koran intricately painted on it with letters of gold.

Malik-e-Maidan (King of the Plains) - is a huge cannon, believed to be one of the largest mediaeval guns. It is 4m long, almost 1 ½ m in diameter and estimated to weigh 55 tonnes. It was cast in 1549 and was brought to Bijapur as a war trophy. Perched atop a fort wall, the cannon was hauled from war-ravaged Purandar in Maharashtra with the help of 400 bullocks, 10 elephants and hundreds of men. A unique feature of this gun is that it is always cool even under the blazing sun. When tapped gently, it tinkles softly like a bell.

Other Attractions - include the Asar Mahal, located near the citadel, served as a Hall of Justice. The Mihtar Mahal, is a stained but richly decorated building that serves as an ornamental gateway to a small mosque. It is said that it was built for the sweepers of the royal house! Upli Buruj - is a 16th century 24m high watchtower built near the western walls of the city. It has a couple of hefty canons on the top and offers good views of the city and the plains

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HAMPI

Hampi is one of the most fascinating historical sites in South India - the site of the Vijayanagar Empire. Hampi is a world heritage site and is the most beautiful and evocative of all the ruins in Karnataka. Most of the site ruins date to early 16th century, built during the reign of Krishna Deva Raya with the Citadel standing on the bank of the river. The Tungabhadra River flows through Hampi, on the banks of which, it is said, the Goddess Hampi (Parvati, the consort of Shiva) attained Lord Shiva.

Places to See -

Hampi Bazaar & Virupaksha Temple - with the locals reoccupying the ancient buildings lining the main street, Hampi Bazaar is once more a bustling village. With its ancient, roofless stalls it is a riot of colour on festive nights. The Virupaksha Temple located at the western end of the bazaar is one of the earliest structures in the city. The main shrine is dedicated to Lord Shiva. Overlooking the temple to the south is the Hemakuta Hill, which has a scattering of early ruins including Jain temples and a monolith sculpture of Narasimha (Vishnu in his half-man half-lion incarnation).

Vittala Temple Complex - located 2km from the Hampi Bazaar, is this 16th century temple, by far the most amazing monument in Hampi. It is a World Heritage Monument having musical pillars. There is an ornate Stone Chariot in the temple courtyard whose wheels used to be capable of turning.

Sule Bazaar & Achyutaraya Temple - halfway between the Hampi Bazaar and the Vittala temple, a track leads to the deserted Sule Bazaar, which gives an idea of what Hampi Bazaar might have looked like if it had not been repopulated. Nearby is the Achyutaraya Temple located at the foot of the Matanga Hill.

The Royal Centre - is a complex, which has various stonewalled enclosures having the rest of Hampi's major attractions like the Lotus Mahal and the Elephant Stables. The Lotus Mahal is a delicately designed pavilion in a walled compound known as the Zenana (Women's) Enclosure. It's an amazing synthesis of Hindu and Islamic styles. The Elephant Stables is a grand building with domed chambers that once housed the state elephants. There is the King's Balance, where kings were weighed against grain, gold or money, which was subsequently distributed to the poor. The Queen's Bath, an impressive structure, open to the sky, surrounded by a moat has arched corridors, projecting balconies and lotus-shaped fountains that once spouted perfumed water. A little away stands the crumbling watchtower, once guarded by eunuchs, from where the royal ladies could watch the festivities taking place.

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HASSAN

Hassan is a pleasant busy little town and the most convenient base to explore Belur (38km), Halebid (33km) and Sravanbelgola (48km). The District Museum here has a collection of sculpture, paintings, weapons, coins and inscriptions.

HOSPET

This town is usually used as a base to explore the ruins at Hampi since it offers a variety of decent accommodations. It is a fairly typical Karnataka country town. The main bazaar is interesting to walk down, with old house & character.

The town comes alive during the Muslim festival of Muharram, which commemorates the martyrdom of Mohammed's grandson, Imam Hussain. The uniqueness of the festival here is that firewalkers can be seen walking barefoot across the red-hot embers of a fire that's been burning all day and night.

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GULBARGA

This town was once the Bahamani capital from 1347 until it was transferred to Bidar in 1428. Gulbarga is a unique synthesis of two cultures.

The Fort of Gulbarga is an amazing structure, with 15 towers and 26 guns. Inside the fort, is the Jama Masjid, built during the late 14th century by a Moorish architect who is said to have fashioned it on the lines of the great mosque in Cordoba in Spain.

Bahamani Tombs - there are several imposing tombs of the Bahamani kings like the Khwaja Bande Nawaz. This tomb is also the venue of the annual Urs, attended by thousands of people.

Other attractions are - the Dargah Library that houses almost 10,000 books in Urdu, Persian and Arabic and the Sharana Basaveshwara Temple.

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MYSORE

The city of royal palaces, sandalwood and the manufacture of incense sticks, Mysore has a pleasant climate, some beautiful parks and shady avenues, and strolls at a relaxing pace in comparison with its dynamic neighbour Bangalore. Mysore is aptly called the "Sandalwood City". Until Independence it was the seat of the Maharajas of Mysore, a princely state covering about a third of present Karnataka. The city stands by a hill named after the Goddess Chamundi. It was once the stronghold of the Hoysalas, the Wodeyars and later on, of Hyder Ali and Tipu Sultan. Mysore derives its name from the mythical Mahisuru where the Goddess Chamundi slew the demon Mahishasura.

Places to See -

Mysore Palace - one of the largest palaces in the country, it was the seat of the Maharajas of Mysore. Built in 1897 in the Indo-Saracenic style in grand proportions with domes, arches, and colonnades of carved pillars and shiny marble floors, the Palace dominates the city's skyline. It is beautifully restored and maintained, the stained glass, the wall paintings, ivory inlaid doors and the ornate golden throne, all are remarkable. Maharaja's Residence is now a museum. The ground floor with an enclosed courtyard displays costumes, musical instruments, children's toys and numerous portraits. The upper floor has a small collection of weapons.

Jayachamarajendra Art Gallery - located in the Jagan Mohan palace, near the Mysore Palace has a vast collection of paintings by renowned artists like Raja Ravi Varma, Nicholas Roerich and other renowned artists. Also on display are curios in ceramics, sandalwood, ivory, metal and stone, ancient musical instruments, antique furniture and other memorabilia from the Wodeyars.

Chamundi Hill - 10km from Mysore and towering over the city, these hills are named after the royal family's deity. Halfway up is the Nandi Bull, a 4.8m monolith. Right on top, is the 2000year old Chamundeswari Temple dedicated to Goddess Durga, (a form of the consort of Lord Shiva) celebrating her victory over the demon Mahishasura.

Zoological Gardens - the Mysore zoo is one of India's best kept zoos set in pretty gardens on the eastern edge of the city centre. This century-old zoo houses nearly 2,000 animals. It has the distinction of breeding some rare wild animals in captivity like the tiger and the king cobra and also has exotic species of plants.

Folklore Museum - located in the Mysore University Campus, is an amazing storehouse of quaint handicrafts, carved wooden figures from Karnataka's villages, decorative masks, ceremonial head wear and a display of leather shadow puppets, dolls and vibrant costumes.

St. Philomena's Church - built in 1933 in the neo-Gothic style, is one of the largest churches in the country. It has beautiful stained glass windows and the chapel contains a relic of St. Philsomena, a 3rd century martyr said to have performed several miracles after her death.

Around Mysore -

Brindavan Gardens - located 19km from Mysore City, these ornamental gardens are laid out at the base of the Krishnaraja Sagar Dam built across the Cauvery River. The dam, 2.4km long and forming a 130sq. Km Lake, is one of the biggest in India. It has been built in stone without cement and comprises parapets and a grotto for the river Goddess Cauvery. The terraced gardens with swirling musical fountains, illuminated at night by a myriad colourful lights look like fairyland. It is a popular picnic spot.

Srirangapatnam - located 16km on the Bangalore-Mysore highway, is built on a long island in the Cauvery River. The fortress was once the capital of Hyder Ali and Tipu Sultan. Inside the fortress walls there is a mosque and the Sri Ranganathaswamy Temple dedicated to Lord Vishnu. A kilometer east of the fort is the Daria Daulat Bagh, the summer palace of Tipu Sultan built in 1784. It's adorned with ornate and beautiful frescoes and now houses a museum with a collection of family memorabilia and paintings depicting Tipu Sultan's campaigns against the British. Nearby is the Gumbaz, the onion-domed mausoleum of Hyder Ali and Tipu Sultan.

Ranganathittu Bird Sanctuary - is located 18 km from Mysore on one of the islands in the Cauvery River. The rocky but well wooded island provides an excellent habitat for water birds. Many species of birds use the sanctuary as a breeding ground, most of which begin in June. It is a good place to see storks, ibis, egrets, darters, spoonbills, cormorants and a many other species. There is a large colony of fruit bats in the trees on the edge of the river and also a number of marsh crocodiles. The sanctuary was established in 1975 and is open all year round but the best time to visit is June to November.

Somnathpur - located 33km east of Mysore, this village is known for the Keshava Temple. Built in 1268 and dedicated to Lord Shiva, the temple is a marvelous example of Hoysala architecture. The walls of this star-studded temple are covered with exquisite sculptures in stone depicting various scenes from the Ramayana and Mahabharata and the life and times of the Hoysala kings.

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NAGARHOLE NATIONAL PARK

Once the Maharaja's reserved forest, Nagarhole became a National Park in 1955. It derives its name from the word 'Naga' meaning snake and the Kannada word 'hole' referring to streams. It lies to the north of the Kabini River (the Bandipur national park lies to the south of it), spreading over 643 sq. km. A dam on the Kabini River and its scenic reservoir demarcates the two parks. Covering gentle hills bordering Kerala, the park includes swampland, stream, moist deciduous forest stands of bamboo, and valuable timber in teak and rosewood trees. The old capital city Mysore is the gateway to this park.

There are fine facilities for some good wildlife watching and sizeable groups of gaur, elephants, sambar, chital and even the occasional tiger or leopard. The other inhabitants of the Park are the muntjac (barking deer), the tiny mouse deer, giant squirrel, slender loris, wild boar, langurs and macaques. The Park also has a wide variety of bird life like the Malabar pied hornbill, the great black woodpecker, the Indian pitta and the green imperial pigeon. The jungle cat, leopard cat and the rusty spotted cat are the residents of the Park.

The best time to visit is April to May but the winter months November to February are much more pleasant.

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PATTADAKAL

This village located 20km from Badami, was the second capital of the Badami Chalukyas and was used in particular for the royal coronations. It was the scene of great architectural activity during the 7th and 8th centuries. Like Aihole, it was a developing ground for South Indian temple architecture.

Among the monuments here, the main is the huge Virupaksha temple reckoned among the finest creations of South Indian architecture. It has a massive gateway, and several inscriptions. In front of it is a majestic Nandi. Next to it is the Mallikarjuna and Papanatha temples. All three are exquisitely chiseled and are prime specimens of early Chalukyan sculptural art. There is also a Jain Temple dating to the 9th century from the Rashtrakuta period.

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SRAVANABELGOLA

Sravanbelgola is one of the oldest and most important Jain pilgrimage centres. It has a long history dating back to the 3rd century BC when Chandragupta Maurya came here with his guru, Bhagwan Bhadrabahu Swami after renouncing his kingdom. The town is famous for the Gommateshwara statue, sacred to Jains. Erected at sometime between AD 980 and 983, just over 17m high, the statue represents the saintly prince Bahubali, son of the first Tirthankar, after he had gained enlightenment. Nearly 700 steps carved in the steep granite slopes start near the village tank and the path up gives excellent views. There are several small shrines on the way to the statue on top. The carved statue captures the tranquility typical of much Buddhist and Jain art. The stone looks as fresh as if newly quarried, due to its being profusely anointed at intervals of 12 years. Every 12th year it is the focus for Jain pilgrims from across India to celebrate the 'Mastakabhisheka' - the magnificent sacred head anointing ceremony.

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