Area: 443,446 sq. km
Population: 66.1 million
Capital: Bhopal
Main Language: Hindi
Best time to visit: September to February

Madhya Pradesh is India's largest state and the geographical heartland of the country. Most of the state is a high plateau and in summer can be very dry and hot, but it also has the highest percentage of forest in India, sheltering a wide variety of wildlife including 22% of the world's tiger population. Virtually all phases of Indian history have left their mark on Madhya Pradesh, historically known as Malwa. There are still many pre-Aryan Gond and Bhil Adivasis (tribal people) in the state, but Madhya Pradesh is overwhelmingly Indo-Aryan.

Although signs of habitation date back some 12,000 years with the rock cave paintings at Bhimbetka near Bhopal, Madhya Pradesh's history can be traced back to the 3rd century BC when the great Buddhist Emperor Ashoka controlled the Mauryan Empire in Malwa. The Mauryans were followed by the Sungas and then the Guptas, before the Huns swept across the State. Around a thousand years ago the Paramaras ruled in southwest Madhya Pradesh. They are chiefly remembered for Raja Bhoj, who gave his name to the city of Bhopal and also ruled over Indore and Mandu. From 950 to 1050 AD the Chandelas constructed the fantastic series of temples at Khajuraho in the north of the State. Between 12th and 16th centuries, the region saw continuing struggles between Hindu and Muslim rulers or invaders. The fortified city of Mandu in the southwest was frequently the scene for these battles, but finally the Mughals overcame Hindu resistance and controlled the region. The Mughals, however, met their fate at the hands of the Marathas, who in turn fell to the British.

Madhya Pradesh is called the "Heart of India" not only because of its location in the centre of the country. It has been home to the cultural heritage of Hinduism, Buddhism, Jainism and Islam. Innumerable monuments, exquisitely carved temples, stupas, forts and palaces dot the State. Its natural beauty is equally varied, spectacular mountain ranges, meandering rivers and miles and miles of dense forests.

One of the best parts about Madhya Pradesh is its accessibility. Bordered by seven states, it is equally close to major tourist destinations in the north, south, east and west. Whether you are in Delhi, Mumbai Chennai or Kolkata, you're never very far from Madhya Pradesh.

Bandhavgarh
Bhopal
Gwalior
Indore
Kanha
Khajuraho
Mandu
Orchha
Sanchi
Ujjain

BANDHAVGARH NATIONAL PARK

Set amongst the Vindhya mountain range, Bandhavgarh is a small national park, but with the highest known density of tiger population in India. This is also known as White Tiger territory. These have been found in the old state of Rewa for many years. The Park is spread over an area of 448 sq. km. Its setting is impressive. It's named after the ancient fort built on 800m high cliffs. There is a temple in the fort and numerous rock-cut cave shrines below it. The terrain is made of rocky hills, sal forests and grazing areas, and formerly agricultural land. The finest of these hills is the Bandhavgarh hill, and on its highest point stands the Fort.

Though no records remain to show when the fort was constructed, it is believed to be about 2000-years-old with several dynasties ruling the fort - the Maghas from the 1st century AD, Vakatakas from the 3rd century; the Sengars from the 5th century and the Kalachuris from the 10th century. The oldest signs of habitation are the caves dug into the sandstone, near the fort. Several of these contain Brahmi inscriptions dating from the 1st century BC. Prior to becoming a National Park, the forest range around the region had been maintained as a Shikargarh or game preserve of the Maharajahs of Rewa. It was only in 1968, that the area was declared as a National Park. Since then, stringent steps have been taken to retain it as an unspoiled natural habitat.

The core area of the park has a fragile ecology, but it supports a variety of wildlife such as nilgai (blue bull), wild boar, jackals, gaur, sambar and porcupines as well as many species of birds. The ramparts of the fort provide a home for vultures, blue rock thrushes and crag martins. Some other inhabitants of the park are the rhesus macaque, the black-faced langur, jungle cats, chinkara, black buck, munjtac and the chital. The park also attracts many migratory birds in the winter months that include the steppe eagle and a variety of wildfowl. Reptilian fauna includes cobra, krait, python, turtle and a variety of lizards. There is also a good chance of spotting the Tiger.

The village of Tala is the access point for the park. There is also a museum here, the Bhaghela Museum, which is part of the private collection of the Maharaja of Rewa. Apart from the famed stuffed white tiger, Mohan, other exhibits include military and hunting paraphernalia, a carved ivory and silver chess set and an extravagant swing bench made of Belgian cut glass and silver.

The park can be explored on elephant back as well apart from the jeep safaris. The ideal time to visit Bandhavgarh is the November to June. The park is closed from July to October for the monsoons.

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BHOPAL

Capital of Madhya Pradesh, Bhopal is a fascinating amalgam of scenic beauty, historic city and modern urban planning. It is situated on the site of an 11th century city, Bhojapal, founded by the legendary Raja Bhoja who is credited with having constructed the lakes around which the city is built. The present city was laid out by the Afghan soldier Dost Mohammed who was in charge of Bhopal during Aurangzeb's reign. He took advantage of the confusion that followed Aurangzeb's death in 1707 to carve out his own small kingdom.

Today Bhopal presents a multi-faceted profile; the old city with its teeming marketplaces and fine old mosques and palaces still bears the aristocratic imprint of its former rulers, among them the succession of powerful Begums who ruled Bhopal from 1819 to 1926. To the north sprawl the huge industrial suburbs. To the south lies the new city with its broad avenues, high rise offices and leafy residential areas. In the centre of the city are the two lakes. A charming legend relates how the queen would recline in a lotus barge that on moonlit nights would drift across the lake. The two lakes of Bhopal still dominate the city, and are indeed its nucleus. Bordered along their shores stand silent sentinels that testify to the growth of a city.

Places to See -

The Lakes - the Upper Lake covers 6 sq. km and a bridge separates it from the Lower Lake. A veritable flotilla of boats is available for hire on the Upper Lake including row boats, pedal boats, sail boats and motor boats. Facing the Lower Lake, there is a fish shaped aquarium that houses a number of fascinating species of fishes in all shapes and sizes

State Archaeological Museum - located near the Lower Lake, this museum has a collection of 6th to 10th century Hindu sculptures, bronzes, pre historic exhibits and copies of paintings from the Bagh caves.

Taj-ul-Masjid - said to be the largest mosque in the country, the building of this towering edifice was begun by Queen Shah Jahan Begum (1868-1901) but was left incomplete on her death. It's a huge pink mosque with two massive white domed minarets and three white domes over the main building. The most striking features of the mosque are the impressive main hall with its inter arched roof, broad façade, spacious courtyard and smooth marble floors. A three day Ijtima congregation held here annually draws people from all over the country.

Jama Masjid - built in 1837, by Kudsia Begum, this is a beautiful mosque with gold spikes crowning the minarets. It is said that centuries earlier a queen of King Upayadita Paramara (1059-80 AD) founded a temple here known as Sabha Mandal.

Moti Masjid - architecturally akin to Delhi's Jama Masjid, this imposing mosque was built by Sikandar Jehan, the daughter of Kudsia Begum in 1860.

Shaukat Mahal & Sadar Manzil - Situated at the entrance to the Chowk (square) area in the heart of the walled city, Shaukat Mahal is an architectural curiosity. It's a mixture of styles in Occidental idioms sets it apart from the pre dominantly Islamic architecture of the area. It was designed by a Frenchman, said to be a descendent of an off shoot of the Bourbon kings of France. Post Renaissance and Gothic styles are combined to charming effect here. Nearby is the elegant, once opulent Sadar Manzil, the Hall of Public Audience of the former rulers of Bhopal.

Bharat Bhawan - is one of the most unique national institutes of India and is a centre for the verbal, performing and visual arts. Designed by the renowned architect Charles Correa, the contours of Bharat Bhawan merge in exquisite harmony with the landscape creating a visual impact of spacious and national elegance. The centre also houses a museum of the arts, an art gallery, a workshop for fine arts, a repertory theatre, indoor and outdoor auditoria, rehearsal room and libraries on Indian poetry, classical and folk music. It is now regarded as the most important centres in the country for the preservation of traditional folk art.

The Chowk (Square) - in the heart of the old city, the Chowk is lined with old mosques and havelis (mansions), reminders of a bygone, princely lifestyle. The shops in its narrow alleyways are treasure troves of traditional Bhopali crafts: jewellery, exquisitely fashioned beadwork, embroidered and sequined velvet purses and cushions.

Tribal Habitat - an open air exhibition of tribal house types located on Shamla Hills, is a presentation of actual size dwellings typical of contemporary tribal cultures in various states of India. The exhibition highlights architectural features and has elaborately displayed interiors. The surroundings have been re-constructed to match some of the interesting tribal environmental features of tribal villages. The habitat is open every day except on Mondays and national holidays from 10am to 6pm.

Lakshmi Narayan Temple & Birla Museum - There are good views over the lakes to the old town from the Lakshmi Narayan Temple which is dedicated to Lord Vishnu. Beside it on Arera Hill is an excellent museum that is well worth visiting. It contains a small but very selective collection of local sculptures dating mainly from the Paramara period. There is also a small selection of terracotta exhibits from Kaushambi and a reconstruction of the Zoo Rock Shelter from Bhimbetka.

Van Vihar - is a safari park located on a hill adjacent to the Upper Lake, with an area of 445 hectares. In these natural surroundings wildlife lovers can view a variety of herbivorous and carnivorous species

Around Bhopal -

Islamnagar - 11km from Bhopal on the Berasia Road, was built by Dost Mohammed and has a hilltop palace and pavilion surrounded by formal gardens. The latter, a synthesis of Hindu and Islamic decorative art has columns lavishly embellished with floral motifs. Other monuments to see here are the 'hamam' or royal bath of Chaman Mahal and the double storied Rani Mahal.

Bhojpur - the legendary Raja Bhoj (1010-53) not only built the lakes at Bhopal but also built another one, estimated at 400 sq. km in Bhojpur, 28km south east of Bhopal. History records that the lake was held by massive earthen dams faced on both sides with huge blocks of sandstone set without mortar. Unfortunately, the lake no longer exists having been destroyed by Hoshang Shah, the ruler of Mandi in fit of destructive passion in the early 15th century. What does survive here is the huge but incomplete Bhojeshwar Temple which originally overlooked the lake. Dedicated to Lord Shiva, the temple has some very unusual design features and sports a lingam 2.3 m high by 5.3 m in circumference. Nearby is another incomplete monolithic Jain temple containing a colossal statue of Mahavira that is 6m in height.

Bhimbetka Caves - like the aboriginal rock paintings in the outback of Australia, the cave paintings of the Bushmen in the Kalahari Desert in Africa or the Paleolithic Lascaux caves in France, the Bhimbetka caves belonging to the Neolithic Age are an archaeological treasure. 45 km south of Bhopal amongst forests of teak and sal in the craggy cliffs, some 1000 rock shelters are located. Almost half contain ancient paintings depicting the life and times of the different people who lived here. Because of the natural red and white pigments, which the painters used, the colours have been remarkably well preserved. There is everything from wild buffalo, rhinoceros, bears and tigers to hunting scenes, initiation ceremonies, childbirth, communal dancing and drinking scenes, religious rites and burials. The oldest paintings are believed to be up to 12,000 years old whereas some of the crude, geometric figures date as recently as the medieval period. The vivid panoramic detail of the paintings depicting the life of the pre-historic cave-dwellers makes the Bhimbetka group an invaluable chronicle in the history of man.

Pachmarhi - located about 210 km southeast of Bhopal, at an altitude of 1067 m and nestled in the Satpura Ranges, is Madhya Pradesh's peaceful hill station. It was 'discovered' in 1857 by Captain James Forsyth of the Bengal Lancers who was galloping through the Satpura ranges. He chanced upon this saucer-shaped valley and recommended its development as a sanatorium. Although nothing like a Himalayan hill station, Pachmarhi is nevertheless a very attractive and relaxing place. The landscape is characterized by rugged hills, forests and deep ravines. Known as the verdant jewel of the hills, the all-pervading greenery of the region is what strikes the observer.

Pachmarhi is also an archaeological treasure house. In cave shelters in the Mahadeo Hill there are ancient cave paintings. Most of these have been placed in the period 500-800 AD, but the earliest paintings are an estimated 10,000 years old. The Pandava Caves are five 1000-years-old rock-cut caves overlooking an attractive garden. Legend has it that the Pandava brothers of the Mahabharata lived here during their exile of 12 years.

In and around Pachmarhi, there are many places of tourist interest. Jata Shankar is a sacred cave temple located in a gorge. The Shiva shrine is hidden under a huge overhanging rock formation. Handi Khoh is an impressive ravine, which has a 300 feet-high precipice. There are a number of interesting short walks as well as longer treks. A recommended site for a leisurely long walk is to the hilltop shrine of Chauragarh, 4km from Mahadeo. Bee Falls is the most accessible of the several waterfalls in the district. For the rock climbers, the Lanjee Giri hill is an ideal spot for some real action. This hill can be scaled both from the east and the west.

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GWALIOR

The history of Gwalior dates back to 8th century AD, when its chieftain Suraj Sen was cured of leprosy by a hermit-saint named Gwalipa. Out of sheer gratitude, Suraj Sen named the city after his saviour. Gwalior's strategic position between north and south India made it an important possession and was captured by several ruling houses. The first historical holders of the city were the Huns. Between 11th to 14th century AD, Gwalior came under the influence of Kachhwaha Rajputs, the Pratiharas, the Sultans Qutub-ud-din Aibak and Iltutmish and remained under Muslim possession until 1398. Under the Tomars, whose most important king was Man Singh (1486-1517), Gwalior rose to prominence. Gwalior was finally surrendered to Ibrahim Lodi in 1518. Held in succession by the Mughals, Jats, Marathas and the British, Gwalior was finally handed over to Jiyaji Rao Scindia at a formal durbar in 1885. The Scindias were the last ruling family of Gwalior and are still influential in the political arena of India.

The City of Gwalior is dominated by its Qila or Fort, which tops the long hill to the north of the new town Lashkar. The old town clings to the hill northeast of the Fort. Today, the city is famous for its educational institutions that attract students from every nook and corner of the country.

Places to See -

Gwalior Fort - the city's most famous landmark has within its wall several interesting temples and ruined palaces. Rising 100m above the town, the walls of the fort encircle almost the entire hilltop. On the way uphill to the fort are located the massive icons of Bahubali, a Jain master which are cut out of huge rocks.

Teli Ka Mandir - is a 9th century complex within the fort that has a peculiar plan and design. The roof is Dravidian while the decorations (the whole temple is covered with sculptures) are Indo-Aryan. A figure of Garuda crowns the 95m high doorway. This is the highest structure in the fort.

Sas Bahu Temples - literally meaning Mother-in-law (Sas) Daughter-in-law (Bahu) temples are another architectural marvel and date from the 9th to 11th centuries. Originally known as the "Sahasrabahu" temple, this temple dedicated to Lord Vishnu is probably the most ancient of the structures within the fort precinct.

Man Mandir Palace - was once a grand music hall built by Raja Man Singh during 1486 for the royal ladies of the palace. It's also known as Chit Mandir or Painted Palace. A delightful and whimsical building, it is the most impressive building in the fort, richly studded with blue, green and yellow tile work creating patterns of animals, birds, tree and flowers on its exteriors.

The Archeological Museum - located within the Gujari Mahal Palace, built in the 15th century by Raja Man Singh for his favorite queen, Mrignayani, has a large collection of Hindu and Jain sculptures and copies of Bagh Caves frescoes.

Jai Vilas Palace & Scindia Museum - located in the new town, the palace belongs to the Scindia family. Although the current Maharaja still lives in a portion of the palace, a large part of it is now a museum. It's full of bizarre items such as Belgian cut-glass furniture, modes of transport ranging from a Rolls Royce on rails to German bubble car, a model railway that carried brandy and cigarettes around the dining table after dinner and so on.

The Old Town - of Gwalior lies to the north and northeast of the fort hill and has three notable monuments, namely the tombs of Tansen and Mohammed Gaus and the Jama Masjid.

Tomb of Tansen - built for the most famous musician of Mughal Emperor Akbar's court, Tansen, the tomb is located in an attractive garden and is the venue for the annual music festival held in Nov-Dec.

Jama Masjid - built during 1661, the mosque is a fine old building constructed of sandstone quarried from the fort hill.

Tomb of Mohammed Gaus - is a sandstone mausoleum of the Sufi saint, who helped the first Mughal Emperor Babur to win over the fort. It is a good example of early Mughal architecture having hexagonal towers at its four corners and a dome that was once covered with glazed blue tiles.

Around Gwalior -

Shivpuri - was the old summer capital of the Scindias, lying 114km south west of Gwalior. Prior to that, its thick forests were the hunting grounds of Emperor Akbar. They were home to the tiger, and the site of many a grand shikar (hunting expedition), resulting in several big cats being 'bagged' by royal huntsmen. Set in formal gardens, the 'chhatris' (cenotaphs) are the main attraction of this place. With Mughal pavilions and shikhara spires these beautiful memorials are inlaid in pietra dura style like the Taj Mahal.

Places to See -

The Chhatris - set in an elaborate Mughal garden, the royal chhatris are dedicated to the Scindias. Facing each other across a water tank are the chhatris of Madhav Rao Scindia and the dowager queen Maharani Sakya Raje Scindia, in a delightful fusion of Hindu and Islamic architectural styles, with their shikhara-type spires and Rajput and Mughal pavilions.

Madhav Vilas Palace - is the summer palace of the Scindias. The 'Mahal' as it is popularly known as, is attired with marble floors, elegant terraces and a Ganapati Mandapa. From the turrets, one can get a splendid view of the Shivpuri town and the park itself.

Madhav National Park - spread over 156 sq. km, it is essentially a deer park and boasts of large numbers of chinkara (Indian gazelle) and chital. Other inhabitants include nilgai, sambar, chausingha, black buck, sloth bear, leopard and langur. The park is also rich in bird life. Chandpata, the artificial lake, is the winter abode of migratory geese, pintail, teal, mallard and gadwall. Deep inside the park, at its highest point stands the George Castle, built by Jiyaji Rao Scindia.

Lacing the forest cover of the National Park, is the Sakhya Sagar Lake, home to various reptiles. The marsh crocodile, the python and the monitor lizard are among the commonly seen species here. On the shores of the lake, and connected to it by a pier, is a Boat Club, an elegant structure. Another spot of interest is the Bhadaiya Kund, a picnic spot along a natural spring, the waters of which are said to be rich in minerals, of a curative nature.

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INDORE

Indore is located in the Narmada River Valley in the western part of Madhya Pradesh with the rivers Saraswati and Kham flowing through. Indore was planned and founded by Rani Ahilyabai Holkar and derives its name from the 18th century Indreshwar Temple. Indore is a flourishing industrial city and a major textile producing centre. Although the city is located on the ancient pilgrimage route to Ujjain, nothing much happened here, historically speaking, until the 18th century. From 1733, it was ruled by the Holkar dynasty who were firm supporters of the British.

Places to See -

Rajwada - is the old palace located in the old part of the town. Its multi storey gateway looks out onto the palm-lined main square in the crowded streets of the Kajuri Bazaar. The Palace is a mixture of French, Mughal and Maratha styles and has been up in flames three times during its 200-year history.

Kanch Mandir - or the Glass temple, located near the Rajwada, this Jain temple (also called Seth Hukanchand temple) is very plain externally but inside, it is completely mirrored with pictures of sinners being tortured in the after life.

The Museum - has one of the best collections of medieval and pre-medieval Hindu sculpture in Madhya Pradesh. most are from Hinglajgarh in the Mandassur district of western Madhya Pradesh and range from early Gupta to Paramara times,

Lal Bagh Palace - located in the southwest of the town and surrounded by gardens, this grand palace was built in 1886. It has the usual over the top touches like entrance gates that are replicas of those at Buckingham Palace, a wooden ballroom floor, marble columns, chandeliers, stained glass windows and stuffed tigers.

Other Attractions include - the Chhatri Bagh in which stand the cenotaphs of the region's former rulers. Of these the cenotaph of Malhar Rao Holkar I, the founder of the Holkar dynasty is the most impressive. The Bada Ganapati Temple has an 8 m high bright orange statue of Lord Ganesh and is reputed to be the world's largest. There is also a magnificent town hall, called the Gandhi Hall, where exhibitions are held.

Around Indore -

Omkareshwar - located about 77 km from Indore, this is an island at the confluence of the Narmada and Cauvery rivers. The island comprises two lofty hills and is divided by a valley in such a way that it appears in the shape of the sacred Hindu symbol 'Om' from above, hence its name. It is a sacred Hindu pilgrimage site as it has one of the 12 jyotirlingas (natural Shiva linga) enshrined in the temple of Sri Omkar Mandhata. It has numerous medieval temples. Perhaps the most important is the Shri Omkareshwar Mahadeo temple enshrining one of the 12 Jyotirlingas (naturally occurring linga) of India. The temple is constructed from local soft stone that has enabled its artisans to achieve a rare degree of detailed work.

The setting of the temple is quite stunning. From the village on the banks of the Narmada, the island seems to loom out of the river, crowned by a former palace. A high footbridge connects the village with the island. One can also descend to the ghats and take a motorboat across the Narmada. There are other temples on the island as well one of which is the Siddhanta Temple, a good example of early medieval Brahmanic architecture and a cluster of other Hindu and Jain temples. Though damaged by Muslim invaders in the 11th century, these temples remain essentially intact.

Maheshwar - located 90km away and situated on the banks of river Narmada, this town was an important cultural and political centre at the dawn of Hindu civilization and was mentioned in the Ramayana and Mahabharata under its former name Mahishmati. It languished in obscurity for many centuries until revived by the Holkar queen Rani Ahilya Bai of Indore in the late 18th century. The principal sights here are the mighty fort-complex the three ghats lining the banks of the Narmada and the many tiered temples, distinguished by their overhanging balconies and intricately worked doorways. The town is also famous for the Maheshwari saris, the hand woven saris known for their unique weave and beautiful complex patterns. The Rewa Society inside the fort runs a sari weaving factory where you can see the weavers at work on their handlooms.

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KANHA NATIONAL PARK

Kanha National Park in the Mandla District spreads over 1,945 sq. km of dense Sal forests, interspersed with extensive meadows and trees and clumps of wild bamboo. This area known as Kipling Country, this is where all the jungle books of Rudyard Kipling were conceived. The Kanha National Park forms the core of the Kanha Tiger Reserve created in 1974 under Project Tiger. The forests of the Banjar valley and Halon valley, respectively forming Kanha's western and eastern halves, had even, at the turn of the century, been famous for their deer and tiger population. By a special statute in 1955, Kanha National Park came into being. Since then, a string of stringent conservation programs have been launched, for the overall protection of the park's flora and fauna. It is one of the most well maintained National Parks in Asia and the sole habitat of the rare hard ground barasingha (antelope). There is also a museum in the park that depicts attributes and activities of the park and tribal culture.

Some of the inhabitants of this park are the gaur, sambar, barking deer, chausingha (the only four-horned antelope in the world) etc. Other frequent visitors include nilgai (blue bull), sloth bear, dhole, (Indian wild dog), and an occasional panther. A wide variety of bird species also inhabits the park like cattle egret, black ibis, hawk eagle, red-wattled lapwing and a number of waterfowl. The barasingha is undoubtedly, the jewel of Kanha, and drastic steps have been taken to rescue it from complete extinction. A small, but significant number of black bucks also inhabit the central Kanha meadow.

But for all the astonishing diversity in its wildlife population, Kanha is best known as the habitat of the Tiger. Sighting and photographing this magnificent animal from elephant back is an unforgettable experience. It was here that the first ever scientific study of the tiger was undertaken by the great zoologist George Schaller.

The park is closed from July 1 to October 31, because of the heavy monsoon. The ideal time to visit Kanha would be the period between February and June.

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KHAJURAHO

The erstwhile capital of the Chandela Kings, Khajuraho is famous for its magnificent temples dedicated to Lord Shiva, Lord Vishnu and the Jain tirthankars. These temples were built between 950 and 1050 AD and represent some of the most exquisite specimens in medieval India that has made Khajuraho one of the most beautiful religious centers of that time. Today Khajuraho is a little village in a lonely corner of the state of Madhya Pradesh. None of the palaces or dwellings of the former city remain and there is no sign of the golden date palms that once graced the entrance of the city and gave it the name "Khajurvahika" or bearer of the date palms. With the wane of the Chandela Empire, these magnificent temples lay neglected and vulnerable to the ravages of Nature. It was only in the last century that they were rediscovered, restored and granted the recognition that they justly deserve.

Originally there were 85 temples, of which only 22 still exist. Despite the fact that they were dedicated to different Hindu gods Shiva, Vishnu and Jain saints, they followed the same architectural style. Each structure stands on a high masonry platform with a distinct upward direction to their build, further enhanced by several vertical projections to simulate the effect of an overall lightness. The temples are almost all aligned east to west, with the entrance facing east. Some of the earliest were made of granite, but all the ones from the classic period of Khajuraho's history are made of sandstone. The three main compartments of the temple are the entrance (ardhamandapa), assembly hall (mandapa), and the actual sanctum (garbha griha).

The decorations, the exquisitely carved sculptures, with which the temples are so liberally embellished have made Khajuraho famous. The divine sculptures in these temples are a tribute to Life itself, embodying everything that is sublime and spontaneous about it. There is an astonishing profusion of individual figures of gods, goddesses, and voluptuous women, mythical beasts, couples in erotic poses and elaborate friezes carved in minute detail. The murals depict the life and times of the Chandelas and celebrate the erotic state of being. They not only testify to the mastery of the craftsman, but also to the extraordinary breadth of vision of the Chandelas.

Khajuraho Dance Festival - to mark the true spirit of Khajuraho, a dance festival is held here in March, every year, wherein, ace artistes of various dance forms participate

The temples are grouped into three geographical divisions: western, eastern and southern.

The Western Group - comprise of the following temples:
Kandariya Mahadeo - is not only the largest but also artistically and architecturally the most perfect of Khajuraho's temples. Dedicated to Lord Shiva, it soars 31m high. The sanctum enshrines a lingam while the main shrine is ornately carved and depicts various gods, goddesses, apsaras (heavenly maidens) in elaborate detail. The entrance arch, the massive pillars and ceilings are adorned with exquisite carvings that leave the visitor spellbound.

Lakshmana Temple - is one of the earliest of this group and also one of the best preserved. It has a full five part floor plan and four subsidiary shrines. The lintel over the entrance of this temple dedicated to Lord Vishnu, shows the holy trinity of Brahma, Vishnu and Shiva with Goddess Lakshmi, Vishnu's consort. The sanctum is adorned with a three-headed idol of Vishnu's incarnations, Narasimha and Varaha. Around the base of the temple is a continuous frieze with scenes of battles, hunting and processions.

Varaha Temple - dating to the 10th century, is dedicated to the Varaha avatar or boar incarnation of Lord Vishnu. Inside this small open shrine is a huge solid and intricately carved figure of the boar incarnation.

Chausath Yogini - is the oldest surviving temple in the group dating to 900 AD. It is the sole granite temple dedicated to Goddess Kali and the only one not aligned east to west. Chausath means 64 and the temple once had 64 cells for figures of the 64 yoginis who attended Goddess Kali.

Chitragupta Temple - is dedicated to the sun god Surya and faces eastwards to the rising sun. it has some very fine sculptures of processions, dancing girls, elephant fights and hunting scenes. The inner sanctum has an impressive image of the presiding deity driving his chariot of seven horses. There is also an 11-headed statue of Vishnu depicting his 10 incarnations.

Devi Jagdamba temple - built around early 11th century, is another Kali temple. It has a standing image of goddess Parvati and is decorated with some of the best carvings of deities. It was originally dedicated to Lord Vishnu.

Mahadev Temple - standing on the same base as the Kandariya Mahadeo and Devi Jagdamba temples is smaller and mainly ruined. Although insignificant compared to its mighty neighbours, it houses some of the best of Khajuraho's sculptures.

Vishwanath Temple - enshrines a three-headed image of Lord Brahma. Lions guard the northern entrance to the structure, while elephants flank the southern flight of steps that lead upto it. A Nandi bull faces the shrine. The sculptures of women are particularly notable here - they write letters, fondle a baby, play music and perhaps more so than at any other temple, languish in provocative poses.

Matangeshwara Temple - this temple, which happens to be outside the precincts of the western group, is dedicated to Lord Shiva. It boasts of a 2.5m high polished lingam. This temple is visited by devotees even today.

The other lesser important temples in this group are the Parvati temple, which has an image of Ganga riding on the back on a crocodile and the Lalguan Mahadev temple, which is constructed of granite and sandstone and is dedicated to Lord Shiva.

Archaeological Museum - located near the western group, this museum has a fine collection of statues and sculptures rescued from around Khajuraho.

The Eastern Group - can be further sub divided into two groups, the first is made up of interesting Jain temples in the walled enclosure and the other scattered through the small village of Khajuraho.

Parsvanatha Temple - is the largest in the Jain complex and is known for its exceptional skill and precision of its construction and for the beauty of its sculptures, though far less erotic than its Western counterparts. It was originally dedicated to Adinath, the first tirthankar, but an image of Parsvanatha was substituted a century ago. Some of the best known figures at Khajuraho can be seen here like the women figures shown applying eye make-up and removing a thorn from her foot.

Adinath Temple - lying adjacent to the Parsvanath temple, this temple is dedicated to the first tirthankar Adinath. Though smaller in proportions, it has fine carvings of sculptures and is very similar to Hindu temples. Only the striking black image in the inner sanctum indicates that it is Jain.

Ghantai (Bell) Temple - located towards the village this small Jain temple's name relates to the bell and chain decorations on its columns. It has a frieze depicting the sixteen dreams of Mahavira's mother and a Jain goddess perched on a winged Garuda.

Shanti Nath Temple - is a relatively modern temple built around 1028 AD, but it contains many components from older temples around Khajuraho. It is also dedicated to Adinath and is still visited by the Digambar (sky-clad) Jains.

Jain Museum - outside the Jain enclosure is a modern circular gallery that houses the statues of the 24 tirthankars (apostles).

The Hindu temples in this group are the Javari temple, dedicated to Lord Vishnu, is a particularly fine example of Khajuraho architecture on a small scale. North of this lies the Vamana Temple dedicated to the dwarf incarnation of Lord Vishnu. It's notable for the relatively simple design of its shikhara (spire). The Brahma temple, made of granite and sandstone is actually dedicated to Lord Vishnu. Finally, there is a Hanuman temple containing a 2.5m high statue of the monkey god on which there is an oldest inscription of the area dating to 922 AD.

The Southern Group - comprises of only two temples.
Duladeo Temple - lying south of the Jain complex, is a later temple and experts say that at this time the skill of Khajuraho's temple builders had passed their peak. Though the images here are more 'wooden' and 'stereotyped', nonetheless, it's a fine and graceful temple with figures of women in a variety of pin-up poses.

Chaturbhuj Temple - located south of the river and 3km from the village, this ruined temple has a fine 3m high image of Lord Vishnu.

Around Khajuraho -

Benisagar Lake - located about 11km away is a picnic spot near the dam built in the Khudar River. It is ideal for boating and angling.

Panna National Park - lying along the River Ken, 32km from Khajuraho, this National Park contains large areas of unspoiled forest spread over almost 543 sq. km and a variety of wildlife including the famous tiger. The other animals to be seen are leopard, chital, langur monkeys and sambar. The cooler months are the best time to visit. The Park is closed from June to October.

Within the vicinity of 50km, day trips from Khajuraho can be made to the Diamond Mines at Majhgawan, the Rajgarh Palace (25km) and the Temples of Panna town. The numerous waterfalls in this area are popular picnic spots like the Ranah Falls (20km).

Ajaygarh & Kalinjar Forts - at Ajaygarh, 80km from Khajuraho is a large isolated hilltop fort. It was built by the Chandelas when their influence in the area was on the decline. The Kalinjar Fort, 25km north is much older, built during the Gupta period and mentioned by Ptolemy in the 2nd century AD. It was a stronghold of the Chandelas from the 9th to 15th centuries before being conquered by Akbar in 1569.

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MANDU

Perched on a hilltop of the Vindhya Range, Mandu, with its natural defenses, was originally the fort capital of the Parmar rulers of Malwa. Towards the end of the 13th century, it came under the sway of the Sultans of Malwa, the first of whom named it Shadiabad or the 'city of joy'. And indeed the pervading spirit of Mandu was of gaiety; and its rulers built exquisite palaces, ornamental canals, baths and pavilions, as graceful and refined as those times of peace and plenty. Each of Mandu's structures is an architectural gem. The extensive and now mainly deserted hilltop fort is one of the most evocative sights in central India.

Places to See -

The buildings of Mandu can be divided into three groups - the royal enclave, the village group and the Rewa Kund group.

The Royal Enclave Group - standing on the northern shoulder of the fort, is Mandu's most impressive group of temples. The monuments in this enclosure are -

Jahaz Mahal - or the Ship Palace, is probably the most famous building in Mandu. It really is ship-like, being far longer (120m) than it is wide (15m) and the illusion is completed by the two lakes that flank it to the east and west. It was constructed by Ghiyas-ud-din for his harem and has lookouts, arches, cool rooms and a beautiful pool.

Taveli Mahal - located south of the Jahaz Mahal, this palace is now the Archaeological Survey of India's Antiquity Gallery. The exhibits of the museum includes fragments of utensils and vessels found at the site and some stone images.

Hindola Mahal - or the Swing Palace is a church-like hall, so called as the inward slope of the walls are supposed to create the impression that the walls are swaying. The wide sloping ramp at the northern end of the building is said to have been built to enable the ruler to be conveyed upstairs by elephant.

Champa Baoli - is an interesting step-well on the north edge of the tank. Its subterranean levels featured cool wells and bathrooms and it was obviously a popular hot-weather retreat.

Other Enclave buildings include the 'house and shop' of Gada Shah and the Mosque of Dilawar Khan, one of the earliest Muslim buildings in Mandu.

The Village Group - the village is about 2km from the fort gate and is where most of Mandu's inhabitants live. The buildings here are -

Jama Masjid - is a huge mosque built in 1454 and it dominates the village. It is supposed to be the finest and largest example of Afghan architecture in India. Its construction was commenced by Hoshang Shah who patterned it on the great Omayyed Mosque in Damascus in Syria. The mosque features an 80sq.m courtyard.

Hoshang Shah's Tomb - located immediately behind the mosque, is this imposing tomb. It is reputed to be India's oldest marble building. Light enters the interior through a stone jali (carved marble lattice screens), typical of the Hindu influence on the tomb's fine design. It is said that Shahjahan sent his architects to Mandu to study this tomb before he embarked upon the design of the Taj Mahal.

Ashrafi Mahal - originally built as a madarsa (religious college), it was later extended by its builder Mohammed Shah to become his tomb. The design was simply too ambitious for its builders' abilities and it later collapsed.

Jain temple complex - there are numerous buildings in this ever developing temple complex. The temples are richly decorated and feature tirthankars in marble, silver and gold, some with glinting jade eyes. Towards the back of this compound is a theme-park style Jain museum, which includes a walk on replica of the Shatrunjaya hill temple complex at Palitana in Gujarat.

The Rewa Kund (Tank) Group - is located at the extreme south of the fort, about 3 km from the village group and past the large Sagar Talao. The Rewa Kund is a reservoir built by Baz Bahadur and was equipped with an aqueduct to supply Roopmati's palace. The monuments here are -Baz Bahadur's Palace - constructed around 1509, the palace is a curious mix of Rajasthani and Mughal styles and is located beside the Rewa Kund. There was a water lift at the northern end of the tank to supply water to the palace.

Roopmati's Palace - is located at the very edge of the fort and is perched on the hillside overlooking the plains below. It's a romantic building. The Malwa legends relate that Roopmati was a beautiful Hindu singer and Baz Bahadur, the last independent ruler of Mandu, persuaded her to leave her home on the plains by building her this palace.

Nil Kantha Palace - located at the end of one of the ravines that cuts into the fort, this palace is actually below the level of the hilltop. At one time it was a Shiva shrine, as the name Nil Kantha (God with the Blue Throat) suggests. Under the Mughals it became a pleasant water palace with a cascade running down the middle.

Hathi Mahal & Darya Khan's Tomb - the Hathi Mahal or the Elephant Palace, is so named because of the pillars supporting the domes are of massive proportions - like elephant legs. Nearby is the tomb of Darya Khan, which was once decorated with intricate patterns of mosaic tiles.

Around Mandu -

Dhar - located 33km away and founded by Raja Bhoj, the legendary founder of Bhopal, this was the capital of Malwa until Mandu rose to power. The well preserved Fort provides good views from the ramparts. There is a large stone Bhojashala Mosque with ancient Sanskrit inscriptions. Adjoining it is the tomb of the Muslim saint Kamal Maula.

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ORCHHA

Orchha is located in the northern part of the State of Madhya Pradesh and lies besides the Malwa plateau along the Betwa River. The word Orchha literally means 'hidden place'. Once the capital of the Bundelas, it is now just a village set among a wonderful complex of well preserved palaces and temples. It was founded in the 16th century by the Bundela Rajput chieftain, Rudra Pratap and it remained the capital till 1783, when nearby Tikamgarh became the new capital. Orchha's golden age was during the first half of the 17th century. Of the succeeding rulers, the most notable was Raja Bir Singh Deo who ruled for almost 22 years.

Complementing the notable proportions of the exteriors are the interiors that represent the finest flowering of the Bundela school of painting. Today Orchha is just a village set amongst a complex of well preserved palaces and temples but nevertheless a wonderful relaxing place. Its impressive temples dating back to the 17th century are still in use today and are visited by thousands of devotees. The area is peppered with fascinating little shrines and memorials, all of which add to the overwhelming feeling of nostalgia, the city evokes in the visitor

Places to See -

Fort Complex & its Palaces - approached by a multi arched bridge over the Betwa River the complex is set on an island in the River and is surrounded by fortified walls. The complex has three palaces set in an open quadrangle. The most spectacular of these is the Jahangir Mahal, built by Raja Bir Singh Deo to commemorate the visit of Mughal Emperor Jahangir to Orchha in 1606. It is a tiered palace crowned by graceful chhatris. There is also a small Archaeological Museum inside this palace. The Raj Mahal palace nearby is situated to the right of the quadrangle. Its interiors have exquisite murals, boldly colourful and on a variety of religious themes. The third palace is the Rai Praveen Mahal, built for the poetess and musician Rai Praveen, the paramour of Raja Indramani (1672-76). This palace is a low two storeyed brick structure designed to match the height of the trees in the surrounding gardens.

The Temples - Orchha's impressive temples date back to the 16th century. They are still in use today and are visited regularly by thousands of devotees.

Ram Raja Temple - is the main temple in the centre of the modern village. Originally a palace, it was turned into a temple when an image of Lord Ram temporarily installed proved impossible to move. Today with its soaring spires and palatial architecture, the temple is surely one of the most unusual in India. It is also the only temple where Lord Ram is worshipped as Raja (king).

Chaturbhuj Temple - built on a massive stone platform and reached by a steep flight of steps, this temple was specially constructed to enshrine the image of Lord Rama that remained in the Raja Ram temple. Lotus emblems and other symbols of religious significance provide the delicate exterior ornamentation.

Laxmi Narayan Temple - linked to the Raja Ram temple by a flagstone path, the style of this temple is an interesting synthesis of fort and temple moulds. The interior contains the most exquisite of Orchha's wall paintings. These murals are vibrant compositions and cover a variety of spiritual and secular subjects. They are in an excellent state of preservation with the colours retaining their vivid quality.

Other Attractions of the area are -

Dinman Hardol's Palace - also called Palki Mahal and located on the other side of the village, is another interesting monument as is the story associated with it. Dinman, the son of Raja Bir Singh, committed suicide to 'prove his innocence' over an affair with his brother's wife, hence achieving the status of a folk hero through his martyrdom. This saintly prince is worshipped as god and even today villages of Bundelkhand have platform like shrines where Hardol is worshipped.

Phool Bagh - literally meaning 'Flower Garden', is a walled complex, built as a summer retreat. It is laid out as a formal garden with a central row of fountains culminating in an eight-pillared palace pavilion.

The Chhatris - there are about 14 chhatris (cenotaphs) or memorials to the rulers of Orchha, grouped along the Kanchan Ghat of the Betwa River.

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SANCHI

Lying 46km north of Bhopal, Sanchi has the singular distinction of having specimens of almost all kinds of Buddhist architectural forms, stupas, chaityas, temples, monasteries and pillars - the finest examples of Buddhist creative art and sculpture in the country dating from 3rd century BC to 12th century AD. The Sanchi Hill works up in shelves, with Stupa 2 on a lower shelf, while Stupa 1, Stupa 3, a 5th century Gupta temple No. 17 and a 7th century No. 18 lie at a middle shelf, and the apex of the hill crowned by a later monastery. Sanchi is, undoubtedly, a landmark in Indian history, specifically the part, which deals with the nurture and subsequent flowering of Buddhism.

Sanchi is, undoubtedly, a landmark in Indian history, specifically the part that deals with the nurture and subsequent flowering of Buddhism.

Places to See -

Great Stupa No. 1 - the oldest stone structure in India 36.5m in diameter and 16.4m high and with a massive hemispherical dome, the stupa stands in eternal majesty. Originally constructed by the Mauryan Emperor Ashoka in the 3rd century BC, it was later enlarged and the original brick stupa enclosed within a stone one. The toranas or gateways that surround this Stupa are the earliest and finest known specimens of Buddhist art. Here, the Buddha is portrayed in symbols: the lotus representing his birth, the tree his enlightenment, the wheel derived from the title of his first sermon, the footmarks and throne representing his presence. A Chunar sandstone pillar fragment lies near Stupa 1 and carries the famous Ashoka edict warning against any kind of fracture in the Buddhist community.

Stupa 2 - lies at the edge of the hill and its most notable aspect is the stone balustrade that encircles it.

Stupa 3 - placed near Stupa 1, has a hemispherical dome crowned with an umbrella of polished stone, which is religiously symbolic. The relics of Sariputta and Mahamogallena, two of Buddha's earliest disciples, were discovered in its inner chamber.

The Ashoka Pillar - lying close to the Southern Gateway of the Great Stupa is one of finest examples of the pillars erected by Emperor Ashoka. It is known for its incredible structural balance and artistic design apart from the vital message that it carries.

The Buddhist Vihara - is a modern day monastery that enshrines the sacred relics of the Satdhara Stupa in a glass casket on a platform in its inner sanctum.

The Great Bowl - carved out of one block of stone, this mammoth bowl contained the food that was distributed among the monks of Sanchi.

Gupta temple No. 17 - was deemed by Sir John Marshall, as one of the most logically designed structures in Indian architecture. It embodied all the principles that were necessary in the construction of a medieval Indian temple. Built in 5th century AD, it is one of the earliest known specimens of Indian temple architecture.

The Museum - The Archaeological Survey of India maintains a site museum below the Sanchi Hill. Noteworthy antiquities on display are the lion capital of the Ashokan Pillar, metal objects used by the monks and other ancient stone sculptures dating back to 3rd century BC discovered during excavations at Sanchi.

Around Sanchi -

Vidisha - or Besnagar as it is called in the Pali scriptures, is located 10km from Sanchi and is situated in the fork of the Betwa and Bes rivers. It had once occupied an important place amongst the ancient cities in India. In the 6th and 5th centuries BC, it rose to become an important trade centre and a bustling city under various dynasties like the Sungas, Nagas, Satvahanas and Guptas. Deserted after the 6th century BC it again came into prominence in the medieval period (9th-12th centuries) as Bhilsa and later changed hands from the Malwa Sultans to the Mughals and finally the Scindias. It has some remarkable antiquities that throw light on the considerable architectural development of the period. An example of which is the ruins of a Brahmanical shrine dedicated to Lord Vishnu, one of the oldest known stone structures dating back to 2nd century BC. The foundation bricks of the shrine were cemented together with lime mortar, the first known example of the use of cement in India. The Museum at Vidisha has a superb collection of Besnagar's earliest antiquities dating from the Sunga period, 9th century sculptures and terra cotta objects. Also worth a visit are the Lohangi Rock, Gumbaz-ka-Maqbara and Bija Mandal Mosque standing on the foundations of a temple.

Udaygiri Caves - 13km from Sanchi and 4km from Vidisha are a group of 20 rock-cut Gupta cave shrines, carved into a sandstone hill that stand, sentinel like, on the horizon. An inscription on one of these caves states that they were produced during the reign of Chandragupta II (382-401 AD), thus dating these caves to 4-5th century AD. The caves possess all the distinctive features that gave Gupta Art its unique vitality, vigour and richness of expression: the beautifully moulded capitals, the treatment of inter-columniation, the design of the entranceway and are characterized by richly carved facades and doorways. The caves have been numbered probably according to the sequence in which they were excavated. Taken as a whole, this stupendous group is a rich representation of the strength of Gupta Art and architecture.

Heliodorus Pillar - between Vidisha and Udaygiri stands this monolithic freestanding votive pillar. Also known as 'Khambha Baba', it was erected in about 140 BC by Heliodorus, a Greek ambassador to the court of Taxila (now in Pakistan). It bears an inscription which states that it was a Garuda Pillar, raised in honour of Vasudeva by Heliodorus, a resident of Taxila, who had been sent to the court of Bhagabhadra as an envoy of the Indo-Bactrian monarch, Antialkidas. The inscription on the pillar is a particularly valuable historic record as it reveals the relations that existed between the region and the Greek kingdom of Taxila and the remarkable fact that a Greek had become a follower of the Hindu god Vishnu to whom the pillar is dedicated. Architecturally, the Pillar with its bell capital resembles the Ashokan pillars but is much smaller in size. The carvings on it have both Buddhist and Hellenistic motifs.

Raisen Fort - located 23km south of Sanchi and on the way to Bhopal lies this huge and colourful hilltop fort. It contains temples, cannons, three palaces, 40 wells and a large tank. This Malwa Fort was built around 1200 AD and although initially the centre of an independent kingdom, it later came under Mandu control. There are also ancient paintings in the caves in this area.

Gyraspur - located 41km north east of Sanchi was a place of considerable importance in the medieval period. Here in the ruins called Athakhambe (Eight Pillars) and Chaukhambe (Four Pillars) are what remains of the columned halls of two temples belonging to the 9th and 10th centuries AD. The faceted shafts of Athakhambe with their extreme delicacy of carving testify to the high degree of craftsmanship during the period. Other monuments of note in this are the Bajra Math and the Mala Devi temple. The latter distinguished by its carved pillars with foliated motifs, representatives of the richest post Gupta style. The town's name is derived from the big fair, which used to be held here in the 11th month, sometimes known as Gyaras.

Udaypur - located 90km north of Sanchi, this place is known for the colossal Neelkantheshwara Temple built around 1059 AD. Dedicated to Lord Shiva, this temple is an outstanding example of Paramara art and architecture of the 11th century. The beauty of the temple lies in its well proportionate and gracefully designed 'shikhar' (spire) and the delicately carved medallions adorning its sides. Built of fine red sandstone and standing on a lofty platform, the temple consists of a garbha-griha (shrine room), a sabha mandap (hall) and three pravesha mandaps (entrance porches). The fascinating spire is perhaps unrivalled in beauty in the whole array of Indian temples. Bijamandal, Sahi Masjid and Mahal, Sher Khan-ki-Masjid and Pisnari-ka-Mandir are some of the other monuments in Udaypur.

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UJJAIN

Modern Ujjain is situated on the banks of the river Shipra, regarded since times immemorial as sacred. It is one of India's holiest cities for Hindus. Ujjain is the modern name for Ujjayini. According to an ancient Hindu calendar, the first meridian of the planet earth passes through Ujjain, making Ujjain time the universal time coordinate. The river Shipra that passes through Ujjain is held as sacred as the Ganges.

It finds mention in the Hindu mythological tale of churning of the cosmic ocean by the gods and the demons, with Vasuki, the serpent as the rope. It is believed that the ocean bed first yielded fourteen gems, then Lakshmi, the goddess of wealth, and finally the coveted vessel of Nectar. In the wild scramble for immortality, with the demons chasing the Gods across the skies, a few drops of the Nectar spilt from the vessel and fell at Haridwar, Nasik, Prayag, and Ujjaini or the present Ujjain. As a result Ujjain is one of the sites of the Kumbha Mela, the greatest religious congregation of the Hindus, which takes place every 12 years.

In its long history, Ujjain has changed hands many times and has been introduced to many other religions and cultures. Part of an ancient trade route, Ujjain was an important city under King Ashoka's father and was known as Avantika. Later, Chandragupta II ruled from here instead of his actual capital Pataliputra. Legend has it that in the hoary past, the God like king Shiva of Avantika commemorated his victory over the demon-ruler of Tripura or Tripuri on the banks of the Narmada by changing the name of his capital to Ujjayini (one who conquers with pride). In recent times, the Marathas, Muslims and Christians too have tried to make their presence felt but Ujjain has retained its Hindu essence and the influence of the other religions has been minimal.

One of the holiest of Hindu cities, Ujjain has a plethora of temples that are spread all over the town. While Mahakal (a form of Lord Shiva) is undoubtedly the presiding deity of Ujjain, the other gods of the Hindu pantheon are also well represented in the hundreds of other temples all over the town.

Places to See -

Mahakaleshwar Temple - dedicated to Lord Shiva, is the most important temple in Ujjain and is also one of the 12 jyotirlingas (naturally occurring linga). The temple was destroyed by Sultan Iltutmish of Delhi in 1235 but restored by the Scindias in the 19th century. One of the major attractions of the town is the Bhasma Aarti held every dawn at the Mahakal temple. In this ritual, the master of cosmic time is propitiated with ash from a cremation ground, the ash being symbolic of the end of a particular manifestation of existential time.

Harsiddhi Mandir - built during the Maratha period, this temple enshrines a famous image of the goddess Annapurna. There are two large pillars here that are adorned with lamps. This was a special feature of Maratha art and are spectacular when lit during the Navratri festival.

Gopal Mandir - located deep in the bazaar, this temple is dedicated to Lord Krishna. The marble-spired temple was built by the queen of Maharaja Daulat Rao Scindia in the 19th century and is a great example of Maratha architecture.

Chintaman Ganesh Mandir - is located on the opposite bank of Shipra River and is believed to be of considerable antiquity. It is said to have been established by Lord Ram himself. The artistically carved pillars of the assembly hall date back to the Paramara period.

Some other notable temples are Bhaironath (the liquor drinking deity) temple and Mangalnath temple, situated at the place where the first meridian is said to pass the earth.

Apart from the temples, the other buildings of Ujjain merit far more than a casual look. "Its houses are like palaces and its palaces are like mountains," wrote the great poet Kalidasa, and even today that observation is not very far off the mark. Ujjain is quite simply a traveler's dream destination, one that should not be seen in hurry but savored slowly.

Shipra Ghats - located along the Shipra River these Ghats (riverbanks) are the most interesting places to visit especially at dawn and dusk when the locals frame their days with prayers. The largest of these is the Ram Ghat, located near the Harsiddhi temple.

Ved Shala (The Observatory) - since the 4th century BC, Ujjain has been India's Greenwich as far as Indian geographers were concerned, with the first meridian of longitude passing through it. Maharaja Jai Singh built one of his quirky observatories here between 1725-30.

Kaliadeh Palace - located on an island in the Shipra River, 8km north of the town is the water palace of the Mandu sultans constructed in 1458. The central dome of the palace is a good example of Persian architecture. River water is diverted over stone screens in the palace and the bridge to the island uses carvings from the sun temple that once stood here. With the downfall of Mandu the palace gradually fell into decline but was restored along with the nearby sun temple by Madhav Rao Scindia in 1920.

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