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Maharashtra
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Area: 307,690 sq. km
Population:
78.9 million
Capital:
Mumbai
Main Language:
Marathi
Best time to visit:
September to April (coast) &
September to mid-June (hills)

Maharashtra is a picturesque state in Western India, with a 720 km coastline and dominates the heart of the Peninsula. The Western Ghats run parallel to the coast and have some scenic and inviting hill stations. The rest of the State stands on the high Deccan plateau, historically the main centre of the Maratha empire, which successfully defied the might of the Mughals under the fearless rule of Chhatrapati Shivaji.

The State is dotted by rugged forts that stand as mute witnesses down the ages to the march of warrior kings, foreign trading vessels and invaders from across the seas. The dry western margins of the plateau have sites from the earliest prehistoric settlements and Paleolithic remains in India. The first well known rulers of Maharashtra were the Satavahanas (230 BC to 225 AD), who were the creators of Maharashtra, and have left a plethora of literary, epigraphic, artistic and archaeological evidence. Thereafter there were a number of Hindu kingdoms, followed by the first Muslim Dynasty in 1307. Mughal power dominated much of the area in the 16th century until the Deccan became the epicenter of the Maratha Empire in the 17th century. Controlled by the Peshwas, the Marathas retained power until they upset the British in 1817. After Independence, western Maharashtra and Gujarat were joined to form Bombay State. The present state was formed in 1960 when the Marathi and Gujarati speaking areas were again separated.

Maharashtra today is a large and populous state, but has a marvelous diversity. Because of its geographical location, its tradition of trade and commerce and the tolerant attitude of its inhabitants, people of many different faiths have settled here. These communities have worshipped and lived in complete freedom and almost every religion of the world is represented in this State. Its booming capital Mumbai, makes it not only one of the most important states economically, but also a major gateway for overseas visitors.

How to Reach -

The main entry point into the State is Mumbai, the capital. It is an international airport and one of the major gateways to India. Mumbai is extensively connected not only to all the major cities of the country but also of the world. It is also connected to all important cities in India by train and by road.

Ajanta
Aurangabad
Ellora
Nasik
Mumbai

AJANTA

It was only in the 19th century, that the Ajanta group of caves, lying deep within the Sahayadri hills, cut into the curved mountain side, above the Waghore River, were discovered. A group of British officers on a hunting expedition stumbled on these ancient works of art in 1819. Their isolation contributed to the fine state of preservation in which some of their remarkable paintings remain to this day. Ajanta is listed as a World Heritage Site. They depict the story of Buddhism, spanning the period from 200 BC to 650 AD.

The Caves are cut into the steep face of a horseshoe-shaped rock gorge on the Waghore River. They are sequentially numbered from one end of the gorge to the other but do not follow a chronological order. The oldest are mainly in the middle and the newer ones are close to the each end. They were built as secluded retreats of the Buddhist monks, who taught and performed rituals in the chaityas (place of worship) and viharas (monasteries), the ancient seats of learning and nerve centres of the Buddhist cultural movement. Five of the caves are chaityas while the other 25 are viharas. Caves 8, 9, 10, 12 and 13 are older Hinayana caves, while the others are Mahayana (dated from around the 5th century AD). In the Hinayana school, Buddha was never represented directly. His presence was always alluded to by a symbol such as the footprint, the lotus or wheel of law as opposed to the Mahayana school, which idolized Buddha.

Using simple tools like hammer and chisel, the monks carved out the impressive figures adorning the walls of these structures. Exquisite wall paintings and sculptures speak volumes of the India of yore. The Buddha, his lives and incarnations are the subject matter to which the artist lent his creativity, infusing each work of art with an overwhelming sense of vitality. Also featured in Ajanta are the paintings of Bodhisattvas, celestial beings personifying the virtues of the Buddha. Many of the caves house panels depicting stories from the Jatakas, a rich mine of tales of the several incarnations of the Buddha. Images of nymphs and princesses amongst others, are also elaborately portrayed.

A heavenly light seems to bathe the paintings, without the obstruction of shadows. This is a feature common to all Ajanta paintings and partly stems it's technique. The paintings cover the surface of the wall completely, the continuing narrative concept being interrupted occasionally by an architectural structure or a series of unusual artistic forms, which provided a break between actions and functioned as props for random figures. The artist's skill and creativity are complemented by his keen sense of observation. This is borne out by a number of paintings that provide a glimpse into royal settings.

Under the royal patronage of the ruling dynasties, the monks and professional artists left a record of contemporary life with palaces, halls and processions and tales of piety and faith on the cave walls. Cave 1 houses some of the most well preserved wall paintings, which include two great Bodhisattvas, Padmapani and Avalokiteshvara. Caves 2, 16 and 17 also contain amazing paintings, while Caves 1, 4, 17, 19, 24 and 26 boast of some of the most divine sculptures. The flying apsara (a celestial being) and the image of Buddha preaching in Cave 17 are a couple of unforgettable works of art.

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AURANGABAD

Aurangabad was founded in 1610, on the site of village Khirki, by Malik Ambar, the Prime Minister of Murtaza Nizam Shah II. Later in 1653, when the Mughal Prince Aurangzeb became the viceroy of the Deccan, he made the city his capital and renamed it Aurangabad. Aurangabad has always been a prominent region on the Deccan plateau and has a long artistic and cultural history to which several dynasties have made major contributions over the years.

Even today, Aurangabad is the hub of culture and history in the Marathawada region. It has some of the best colleges and universities in the state and is one of the fastest growing industrial towns in India. The town is the best base to visit the Ajanta and Ellora Caves.

Places to See -

Bibi-ka-Maqbara - is a mausoleum built in 1679 Aurangzeb's son for his mother Rabia-ud-Daurani. It is a rather pale imitation of the Taj Mahal and the only specimen of Mughal architecture of its kind, in the Deccan plateau. Though its exterior lacks symmetry and balance and its interior decoration and carvings are nothing as compared to the Taj Mahal, nevertheless it is one of the finest buildings of its period; the royal resting-place has its own splendour and grace.

Aurangabad Caves - although they are easily overlooked in favour of the Ajanta and Ellora caves, Aurangabad has its own group of caves located 3km north of the town. These caves, 10 in number were carved out the hillside around the 6th or 7th century AD. These are all Buddhist caves and are clubbed in two groups: western (caves 1 to 5) and eastern (caves 6 to 10). The caves are both chaityas and viharas and have some beautiful sculptures, showing Buddha in different forms. The oldest of these is cave 4, which is a Hinayana chaitya. The rise of Tantric influence in Buddhism can be discerned in the sculptures and iconography of some caves particularly Cave 7 which has sculptures of scantily clad and ornately bejewelled women.

Pan Chakki - or the Water Wheel, takes its name from the mill that, in its day, was considered a marvel of engineering. It was built by Malik Ambar in 1695. Driven by water brought from earthen pipes from the river 6km away, the mill once ground grain for pilgrims. A Sufi saint, Baba Shah Muzaffar, who was also the spiritual guide to Aurangzeb is also buried here. A garden with a series of fish filled tanks serves as his memorial.

Purwar Museum - is a small museum located in Sarafa road that contains the fascinating collection of a retired doctor. Among the exhibits are a 500-year-old chain mail suit, a copy of the Koran handwritten by Aurangzeb and an 800-year-old paithani sari.

Around Aurangabad -

Daulatabad - located about 13 km away from Aurangabad is this magnificent hilltop fortress. Once known as Devgiri, this fortress is one of the few impregnable forts in Maharashtra and has fine architecture. It was built in the 12th century by Bhillama, the king of the Yadava dynasty and was renamed in the 14th century as Daulatabad, the 'City of Fortune' by the Sultan of Delhi Mohammed Tughlaq. A 5 km massive wall, artificial scarping, spiked gates, dungeons and a variety of complicated defence systems rendered the fortress impregnable. It has a 60 m high tower of victory known as Chand Minar. Another feature of the fort is the canon, cast from five different metals and engraved with Aurangzeb's name.

Grishneshwar Temple - situated about 30 km away is an 18th century temple dedicated to Lord Shiva. It is also one of the 12 jyotirlingas and hence an important pilgrimage place for Hindus. The temple is rich in beautiful carvings and exquisite architecture.

Khuldabad - or the 'Heavenly Abode', is a walled town just 3 km from Ellora. It is the Karbala (holy shrine) of Deccan Muslims. A number of historical figures are buried here, including Aurangzeb, the last great Mughal Emperor. His final resting place is a simple affair of bare earth in a courtyard of the Alamgir Dargah (Mosque) located at the centre of the town. Within the Dargah there is supposed to be a robe worn by Prophet Mohammed, which is shown to the faithful once each year.

Paithan - located 56 km south of Aurangabad and situated on the banks of the Godavari River, this town is most famous for Paithani silk saris. These highly sough after saris are brocaded with pure gold thread. Apart from the Paithani weaving centre, the other attraction is the Gyaneshwar Gardens, the largest in Maharashtra.

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ELLORA

Situated about 30km from Aurangabad, the World Heritage listed cave temples of Ellora are the pinnacles of Deccan rock-cut architecture. Over five centuries, generations of Buddhist, Hindu and Jain monks carved monasteries, chapels and temples from a 2km long escarpment and decorated them with a profusion of sculptures of remarkable imagination and detail. These cave shrines are memorable for their invaluable contribution to the enormous wealth of Indian heritage.

The caves run north-south. Because of the escarpment's gentle slope, as opposed to the sheer drop at Ajanta, many of the caves have elaborate courtyards in front of the main shrines. In all there are 34 caves - 12 Buddhist (600-800 AD), 17 Hindu (600-900 AD) and 5 Jain (800-1000 AD). Ellora represents the renaissance of Hinduism under the Chalukya and Rashtrakuta dynasties, the subsequent decline of Indian Buddhism and a brief resurgence of Jainism under official patronage. The sculptural work at Ellora shows the increasing influence of Tantric elements in these three religions and their coexistence at one site indicates a prolonged period of religious tolerance.

Buddhist Caves - the southernmost 12 caves are all Buddhist viharas, except cave 10, which is a chaitya. While the earliest caves are quite simple, caves 11 and 12 are much more ambitious, probably in an attempt to compete with the more impressive Hindu temples. The sculptures here accurately convey the nobility, grace and serenity inherent in the Buddha. Caves 6 and 10 house images from the Buddhist and Hindu faith, under the same roof, the latter dedicated to Vishwakarma, the patron saint of Indian craftsmen.

The Hindu Caves - while calm and contemplation infuses the Buddhist caves, drama and dynamic energy characterize those of the Hindu group (caves 13 to 29) in the middle of the escarpment. In terms of scale, creative vision and skill of execution, these are in a totally different league to the neighbouring Buddhist and Jain caves. Cave 14 was a Buddhist vihara converted to a temple dedicated Shiva in the 17th century. Scenes here include Shiva dancing the tandava; Shiva playing chess with his consort Parvati. Cave 15 is one of the finest in Ellora, though it is named the Das Avatar (10 incarnations of Vishnu) cave, it has more of Shaivite scenes. The other Hindu caves pall beside the majesty of the Kailasa temple, but nevertheless a worth a look.

The Kailasa Temple in cave 16 is the masterpiece of Ellora. Dedicated to Lord Shiva, it took almost a century to complete. This mountain abode of Lord Shiva, is in all probability, the world's largest monolith, the gateway, pavilion, assembly hall, sanctum and tower, all hewn out of a single rock. What is amazing about it is the fact, that unlike other temple structures which are built base onwards, the sculptor or architect involved here, started carving from the very top and the sides. Gigantic, though it is, it remains one of the most delicate and intricate ancient works of art. For three days in December this temple is the venue of the annual Ellora Dance & Music Festival.

The Jain Caves - mark the final phase of Ellora. They do not have the drama and high voltage energy of the Hindu temples nor are they as ambitious in size, but they balance this with their exceptionally detailed work. They are about 1km north of the last Hindu cave. Cave 32 is the finest of the Jain caves. It has images of the Jain tirthankars including a seated image of Mahavira, Buddha's contemporary and the founder of the Jain religion. Each of the caves shows the beliefs of the Jains and their strict scientism that imbued in them a spirit of non-violence towards all.

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MUMBAI

Mumbai, till recently known as 'Bombay' is the capital of Maharashtra. It is the fastest moving, most affluent and industrialised city in India. The city has a natural harbour, which was developed by the British. It is one of the busiest ports of India, handling approximately 40 percent of India's maritime trade. Mumbai derives its name from the local deity Mumba Devi, whose temple is still there. The Portuguese, predecessors of the British preferred to think of the name as Bom Baim, the Good Bay. Mumbai is a group of seven islands, which are today known as Colaba, Mahim, Mazgaon, Parel, Worli, Girgaun and Dongri. Large expanses of open sea have been filled in and tidal swamps have been reclaimed for furthering the land area. Mumbai is now one big island connected to the mainland by long, sweeping bridges.

The islands that now form Mumbai were first home to the Koli fisher-folk whose shanties occupy parts of the city shoreline today. The islands were ruled by a succession of Hindu dynasties, invaded by Muslims in the 14th century and then ceded to Portugal by the Sultan of Gujarat in 1534. The Portuguese did little to develop them before the major island of the group was included in Catherine of Braganza's dowry when she married England's Charles II in 1661. Under the British government, Bombay soon developed as a major trading port, adornment with neo-gothic architecture and became the British Empire's entrance to its proudest "Crown Jewel".

Mumbai today is more than just a metropolis. It is in fact an enigma of mud huts and skyscrapers, age-old traditions and high fashions, the industrialists' haven and moviemakers' Hollywood, producing more films each year than any other county in the world. It is indeed the country's most cosmopolitan city. It is renowned as the country's financial nerve center, and also an important center of theater, art, music, and classical dance. Mumbai is home to people of all Indian creeds and cultures. It is a fascinating city, throbbing with life, and, for many people, the gateway to India.

Places to See -

Gateway of India - the landmark of Mumbai, was the principal port when the visitors came to India by ship. The gateway was conceived following the visit of King George V to India in 1911 and was officially opened in 1924. The yellow basalt Arch of Triumph, derived from the Muslim styles of 16th century Gujarat, is located on the shore of Mumbai Harbour at the tip of the Apollo Bunder. Today the area around the Gateway is a prominent promenade, people gather here for a stroll in the early morning and evenings. Here also, boats depart from the Gateway's wharfs for Elephanta Island.

Colaba Causeway - occupying the City's southernmost peninsula is the travellers centre. It is a vibrant fashionable suburb and a busy commercial thoroughfare, which extends to the end of the promontory. The Sassoon dock here is always interesting to visit at dawn, when the fishing boats come in and unload their catch. At the southern end of the causeway is the steepled Church of St. John the Evangelist, also known as the Afghan Church. It was built in 1847 and is dedicated to the soldiers who died in the Sindh campaign of 1838 and the First Afghan war of 1843.

Mumbai Fort - is the area north of Colaba, since the old fort was once located here. There are a lot of impressive buildings from Mumbai's golden period here. St. John's church, dedicated to the soldiers, who laid down their lives in the Sindh campaign of 1838, and the first Afghan war of 1843, is also worth a visit.

Prince of Wales Museum - located between Colaba and the Fort, this museum was designed by George Wittet to commemorate the visit of King George V, who as Prince of Wales laid the foundation stone in 1905. Built in a grand Indo-Saracenic style, the museum is set in an ornamental garden and boasts a galleried central hall topped by a huge dome. Its collection includes impressive sculptures from Elephanta Island, Gujarat and Karnataka, terra cotta figurines, miniature paintings, porcelain and weaponry. There is also a Natural history section and a collection of European paintings.

Flora Fountain - is a cherished though undistinguished fountain that was erected in 1869 in honour of Sir Bartle Frere, the governor of Mumbai who was responsible for dismantling the fort and shaping much of modern Mumbai.

Marine Drive - Netaji Subash Road, better known as Marine Drive, is one of the most popular promenades of Mumbai. Built on land reclaimed from Back Bay during 1920, it runs along the shoreline of Back Bay, starting at Nariman point and sweeping around the Chowpatty beach up to Malabar hills. This is one of Mumbai's most popular promenades and sunset watching spots. At night, lined with lights, it is a very attractive sight from Malabar Hill, a view that gave it the description of being 'Queen Victoria's Necklace'.

Victoria Terminus (VT) - or Chhatrapati Shivaji Terminus, as it is now called, is the most remarkable example of Gothic architecture in India. It looks more like a lavishly decorated palace or cathedral than anything as mundane as a transport depot. It was opened during Queen Victoria's Golden Jubilee year. It was designed by Frederick Stevens and was completed in 1887, 34 years after the first train in India steamed out of this site to Thane.

Malabar Hill - located on the northern promontory of Back Bay, though an expensive residential area is favoured for its cool breezes and fine views. There is a Jain temple here built of marble in 1904 and dedicated to the first Jain tirthankar Adinath. On top of the hill are the Hanging Gardens, laid over a network of water reservoirs in 1881 and the Kamla Nehru Park. Both offer fine views of the city, the harbour and the hills beyond.

Walkeshwar Temple - or the Lord or the Sand temple is one of the oldest and most important temples in the area. It is said that Lord Rama constructed a lingam of sand at this site while on his way to Lanka to rescue Sita. The original temple was probably built a 1000 years ago.

Haji Ali's Mosque - situated at the end of a long causeway poking into the Arabian Sea, this whitewashed fairy-tale mosque contains the tomb of the Muslim saint Haji Ali. It is said the saint had died while on pilgrimage to Mecca and the casket containing his mortal remains floated and came to rest on a rocky bed in the sea, where devotees constructed the tomb and mosque in the early 19th century. It is connected to the mainland by a long causeway, which can only be crossed at low tide.

Mani Bhawan (Gandhi Memorial) - is a memorial to Mahatma Gandhi who stayed here from time to time between 1917 to 1934, it contains two picture galleries and a library of books by and on Mahatma Gandhi.

Victoria Gardens - these gardens contain the Victoria & Albert Hall Museum and the city zoo. Inspired by the V & A in London, the museum was built in 1872 and its collection covers the history of Mumbai and contains prints, maps and models.

Bazaars - Mumbai is also famous for it's many bazaars and markets of which the most popular is the Crawford Market. A colourful market, this is the last outpost of British Bombay. It was the city's wholesale produce market. Bas-reliefs by Rudyard Kipling's father adorn the Norman-Gothic exterior of the market. Kalbadevi and Bhuleshwar bazaars located north of Crawford Market are also interesting forays. The Jama Masjid and the interesting Mumba Devi temple are also located here.

Beaches - there are a couple of popular beaches in Mumbai namely Chowpatty and Juhu, which are always abuzz with a lot of Beach activities. Chowpatty, is a long stretch of white sand that looks attractive from a distance and is the most popular spot for people seeking evening outs. It is also a scene for the vibrant annual Ganesh Chaturthi festival. Juhu, a 5km beach fringed with palms and coconut trees, is a popular picnic spot and has a number of hotels and restaurants nearby.

Around Mumbai -

Elephanta Caves - located across the sea from the Gateway of India and accessible by ferry is the island of Elephant that has rock-cut cave temples dedicated to Lord Shiva. Little is known about their origins but they are thought to have been created between 450 and 750 AD, when the Island was known as Gharapauri (Place of Caves). The Portuguese renamed it Elephant because of a large stone elephant that once stood near the shore. Unfortunately the Portuguese did considerable damage to the sculptures but their size, beauty and power remain impressive. There is one main cave with a number of sculpted panels all relating to Shiva. The most famous sculpture here is the Trimurti, representing the three-headed Shiva where the god is depicted as the trinity of the creator, the preserver and the destroyer. There are also figures of Shiva dancing the tandava, the marriage of Shiva and Parvati and one in which Shiva appears as Ardhanareshwar, uniting both sexes in one body.

Bassein - is located on the northern side of the Bassein Creek, the river that separates Greater Mumbai from the Indian mainland. It has the atmospheric remains of the fortified city built by the Portuguese in 1534. It is said that the city had such pomp and splendour that it was known as the 'Court of the North'. The city walls are still standing with the ruins of the Cathedral of St. Joseph.

Sanjay Gandhi National Park - is a 104 sq. km protected area of forested hills lying on the city's northern fringe. Formerly known as the Borivali National Park, it has interesting flora, birdlife and boasts a small population to tigers. There is a Lion Safari and Tiger Safari inside the northern entrance of the Park that offers visitors animal-watching rides in secure safari vehicles. The park also contains the 109 Kanheri Caves, which line the side of a rocky ravine. Carved out of native rock, these caves were used by Buddhist monks, as viharas (monasteries) and chaityas (temples), for nearly a thousand years, between 2nd and 9th centuries AD, thus making them one of the oldest rock monasteries in the country. The caves are noteworthy for their Stupas, sculptures and massive pillars.

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NASIK

Nasik, located on the banks of the Godavari River near the border with Gujarat, is an interesting town with hundreds of temples and colourful bathing ghats. It is one of Hinduism's most holy sites, taking its sanctity from its position on the headwaters of the Godavari River, one of the holiest rivers of the Deccan and sometimes referred to as the Ganges of the Deccan. Nasik is also one of the sites of the Kumbh Mela along with Ujjain, Haridwar and Allahabad. Nasik has been one of India's fastest growing cities, but the town itself undoubtedly ancient.

According to legend, Nasik got its name from an episode of the Ramayana when Lakshman, the brother of Lord Rama, cut off the Nasika or nose of Ravana's sister Shurpanaka. This territory was included in the Mauryan Emperor Ashoka's might empire. Later during the era of the Satavahanas the area became very prosperous as it lay on the trade route to Broach. It was renamed as "Gulshanabad" during the Mughal period, in appreciation of its beauty. The old name was restored when the Peshwas took over the area in 1751.

Places to See -

Ram Kund - is a holy bathing tank and is the focus for pilgrims filing into the town. Surrounded by ghats and the riverside market, it's a lively and interesting area to explore. The Kund is said to have been used by Lord Rama and Sita during their exile in the Ramayana. Its holy water is believed to provide moksha (liberation of the soul) to those whose ashes are immersed here.

Kala Ram Mandir - or Black Rama temple, located east of the Ram Kund, is the city's holiest temple. The black stone temple is in a 96 arched enclosure and contains icons of Rama, Sita and Lakshman as well as a huge bell that can be heard from 5km away.

Other Attractions of the area are -

Near the Kala Ram temple is the Sita Gupha, a cave from where Sita, the wife of Rama was carried off to Lanka by the evil king Ravana. Among the many temples in the town, the Sundar Narayan Temple, located at the western end of the Victoria bridge is a worth a visit. Dedicated to Lord Vishnu, the temple built in 1756 has three black Vishnu images. Another interesting temple is the Mukti Dham Temple located about 7km southeast of the town. It is a modern temple with a striking white marble structure. The Rameshwar or Naro Shankar temple, standing on the bank of the Godavari River, is the richest and the most elaborate. To its east is the Ramagaya pool, where Lord Ram is said to have performed funeral service in memory of his father.

Around Nasik -

Pandu Lena - located about 8km south of Nasik there is a group of 24 rock cut Hinayana Buddhist caves dating from around the 1st century BC to the 2nd century AD. Some have excellent carving, particularly on the exterior doorways. Caves 3 and 10 are viharas having some interesting sculptures. Cave 18 is a well-sculpted chaitya with an elaborate façade.

Trimbak - located 33km west of Nasik is a small town that has a spring on a steep hill, which is the source of the Godavari River. The source of the Godavari dribbles into the Gangasagar Tank whose waters are reputed to wash away sins. From this tiny start the Godavari eventually flows down to the Bay of Bengal, clear across India. The town is partly surrounded by a fantastic semi-circle of hills, topped by near vertical scarp. The Trimbakeshwar Temple here is one of India's most sacred and contains one of the 12 jyotirlingas (naturally occurring linga). The temple is however open only to Hindus, but non-Hindus can see into the courtyard from a convenient vantage point.


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