Area: 155,707 sq. km
Population: 34.2 million
Capital: Bhubaneswar
Main Language: Oriya
Best time to visit: November to March

Orissa, the lush green state, girdled by the Bay of Bengal, lies along the eastern seaboard of India. It has seen some of the best fusion of traditional Indian art in its many temples and monuments, and has been able to preserve much of it, in an environment natural to its wonder and attractions. It was in Orissa, that Buddhism found some of its strongest exposure, and cult following. However, it was Hindu art that dominated the landscape, eventually, and resulted in the profusion of temple traditions, that have endured till now.

Heavily forested, and isolated, Orissa was once famous for its majestic battle elephants. But life in Orissa revolved around temples and that the Oriyas, the people of Orissa, lived lives free of strife is evident from the fact that the state has few forts or fortified palaces to its credit, indicative of centuries of peace and harmony. Although known throughout the ancient world as a formidable maritime empire with trading routes stretching to Bali, Sumatra and Java, the history of Orissa, then called Kalinga, is a little hazy until the demise of the Kalinga dynasty in 260 BC. Kalinga was conquered by Ashoka, the Mauryan Emperor, in a bloody battle. Shocked at the carnage Ashoka foreswore violence and converted to Buddhism. Around the 1st century BC, under the rule of the Chedis, Buddhism declined and Jainism was restored as the faith of the people. Monastery caves were created and Udayagiri and Khandagiri became important Jain centres. By the 7th century AD Hinduism had, in turn supplanted Jainism and under the Kesari and Ganga kings, trades and commerce flourished. Countless temples from that classical period stand today. The Oriyas defied the Muslim rulers until the region fell to the Mughals in the 16th century. Since then Orissa was successively ruled by the Afghans, Marathas and the British.

Orissa is predominantly rural, with fertile green coastal plains rising to the hills of the Eastern Ghats. The State is mineral rich and is a big exporter of iron ore. The Oriyas, 25% of whom are adivasis (indigenous tribes) are very friendly and hospitable and the atmosphere of the State is generally relaxed. Most of the state's attractions are close to each other, and convenient access is provided out of the state capital, Bhubaneswar. The capital itself is an intriguing amalgam of the old and the new, an emerging modern Indian city, that is steeped in the roots of the traditions of its glorious past, without being overwhelmed by it.

How to Reach -

The most convenient access into Orissa is a flight to Bhubaneswar, which is connected to major cities like Hyderabad, Nagpur, Calcutta, Delhi, Mumbai and Chennai. Once in Bhubaneswar, road travel is the best option to visit the other attractions in Orissa.

Bhubaneswar
Chilka
Konark
Puri

BHUBANESWAR

The ancient capital of the Kalinga empire, and now the capital of Orissa, Bhubaneswar's history goes back over 2000 years. With its many temples, dating from the 8th to the 13th century AD, Bhubaneswar is known as the 'Temple Town'. It is said that one time the Bindu Sagar tank alone had over 7000 temples around it. Of these only 500 or so still survive. This is the place where temple building activities of the Orissan style flowered from its very inception to its fullest culmination extending over a period of over one thousand years.

Bhubaneswar is a rural Indian capital city with a delightful juxtaposition of modern buildings and ancient temples, which rise, in sepulchral splendour above new hotels, office blocks and industrial complexes. Being the seat of Tribhuvaneshwar or Lord of the Three Worlds, Bhubaneswar is an important Hindu pilgrimage centre.

Places to See -

Lingaraja Temple - dedicated to Tribhuvaneshwar (a form of Shiva) or the Lord of the Three Worlds, this temple is a prime example of Indian architecture, in its most mature and fully developed state. Its present form dates back to the 11th century, although parts of it are over 1400 years old. The presiding deity, here, is the Swayambhu Linga - half Shiva, half Vishnu, a unique feature of the temple. The granite block representing the Linga is said to be bathed daily with water, milk and bhang (marijuana) Almost all the Hindu gods and goddesses are represented in this temple, mirroring the inherent element of harmony within the religion. More than 50 smaller temples and shrines crowd the enclosure. This temple is closed to non-Hindus, however a viewing platform allows visitors to see over the wall.

Bindu Sagar - or the Ocean Drop Tank, lying just north of the Lingaraja temple, is said to contain water from every holy stream, pool and tank in India - obviously a good place to wash away sin. There are a number of temples and shrines scattered around the tank. In the centre of the tank is a water pavilion where, once a year, the Lingaraja temple's deity is brought for ritual bathing.

Vaital Mandir - located near the Bindu Sagar tank, this temple has a double storey 'wagon roof', an influence from Buddhist Cave architecture. It dates from the 8th century and was a centre of Tantric worship. The presiding deity here is Chamunda (a tantric form of Goddess Kali) or Shakti. Seated on a corpse in a dark, inner sanctum, the goddess sports a garland of skulls around her neck, though usually hidden beneath her temple robes. The various niches on the inner wall depict equally startling images as also scenes of tantric rituals. It is the first of the temples to depict erotic sculptures, and is also unique in that, that the outer surface of the vault is plain and the interiors are lavishly embellished.

Parasurameswara Temple - built about 650 AD, this is the best preserved of the early temples. Dedicated to Lord Shiva, it has lively bas-releifs of elephant and processions, lattice windows and Shiva images.

Mukteswara & Siddheswar Temples - a small 10th century temple, this is one of the most ornate in Bhubaneswar. The finely detailed carvings show a mixture of Buddhist, Jain and Hindu styles. It is often referred to as the "gem of Oriya architecture". The highlight of the temple is the magnificent torana (decorative gateway), an arched masterpiece reminiscent of the Buddhist influence in Orissa. The temple is dedicated to Lord Shiva and is also carved with figures of ascetics in several poses of meditation. In the same compound is the later Siddheswar temple, though plainer than Mukteswara, it boasts of a fine standing Ganesh figure.

Rajarani Temple - built in the 11th century, this temple is famous for its ornate deul (sanctuary). Around the compass points are pairs of statues representing the eight dikpalas (temple guardians). Between them, nymphs, embracing couples, elephants and lions fill the niches and decorate the pillars. The temple is remarkable for the absence of any presiding deity. The temple's name is supposed to be derived from the red-gold sandstone used in building it - rajarani being the local name for the stone.

Brahmeswara Temple - dating to the 9th century, this temple stands in a courtyard flanked by four smaller structures. The temple is notable for its finely detailed sculptures with erotic and sometimes amusing elements.

Orissa State Museum - boasts a rich collection of rare palm-leaf manuscripts, traditional and folk music instruments, Bronze Age tools, an armoury and an interesting display of Orissan tribal anthropology. There is also a magnificent collection of Buddhist and Jain sculptures and a gallery displaying the works of contemporary Orissan artists.

Tribal Research Centre - or the Museum of Man is primarily an anthropological research centre. It has an outdoor display of houses of Orissan adivasis, including the Santal, Juang, Gadaba, Saora and Kondh.

Udayagiri & Khandagiri Caves - located a couple of kilometers south of Bhubaneswar are these twin hills riddled with caves, many of which are ornately carved. Most are thought to have been chiseled out for Jain ascetics in the 1st century BC. Built by the Chedi kings, these are fine specimens of Jain cave art. The 117-line inscription engraved in the Hathi Gumpha or elephant cave, is a magnificent specimen of Pali records so far found in India.

Around Bhubaneswar -

Dhauli Hill - located 8kms from Bhubaneswar on the bank of the Daya River, stands this mute testimony to the epoch making Kalinga war that was fought in the 3rd century BC. Dhauli is renowned for its Ashokan rock edicts, inscribed on a rock on the foot of the hill and crowned by a relief depicting an elephant. Dhauli also houses small rock cut caves, medieval Hindu temples, and a renovated hilltop Shiva temple, known as Dhavalesvara. It has also gained prominence due to the establishment of a Buddhist Peace Pagoda, popularly known as Shanti Stupa, at the top of the hill, built in the early seventies by the Japan Buddha Sangha and Kalinga Nippon Buddha Sangha.

Nandankanan - located about 20km away and picturesquely carved out of the Chandaka forest, this is a Biological Park where animals are kept in their natural habitat. A centrally located lake divides the Zoo from the Botanical Gardens. Tigers, lions, clouded leopards, black panthers, European brown bear, Himalayan black bear, Gharials, rosy pelican, Indian python and the king cobra, are among the many attractions of the zoo, which is also famous for its White Tigers. The exotic Botanical Garden on the other side of the zoo preserves varieties of indigenous plants.

Cuttack - located on the banks of the Mahanadi, Devi and Kathajuri rivers, 35km north of Bhubaneswar, this is one of Orissa's oldest cities and was the state capital till 1950. Though a small chaotic city, it is great for its shopping. Silk and cotton textiles, horn and brasswares are manufactured here along with the exquisite, delicate silver filigree work of which Cuttack is famous. The sights to see here include there are ruins of a 14th century Barabati Fort. Kadam Rasool, located in the city centre, is a sacred 18th century shrine that is revered by both Hindus and Muslims. It contains the footprint of the Prophet Mohammed. There is an 11th century stone Revetment on the Kathajuri River, which protects the city from seasonal floods. It's a remarkable example of ancient technological skill of Orissa. The temple of Cuttack Chandi is dedicated to the presiding deity of the city.

Lalitgiri, Udaigiri & Ratnagiri - are three-hilltop complexes northeast of Cuttack and about 100km from Bhubaneswar, where some remarkable Buddhist relics and ruins can be found. Together they make up the mini golden triangle of Orissa's amazing Buddhist legacy. A gold casket, thought to contain the relics of the Buddha was discovered at Lalitgiri. Udaigiri has its own monastery complex and a brick stupa. The Ratnagiri site has the most interesting and extensive ruins of two large monasteries that flourished here from the 6th to 12th centuries. There are beautifully carved doorways, a large stupa and enormous Buddha figures.

Gopalpur-on-Sea - is a popular beach resort located 170km from Bhubaneswar. This is a perfect beach, fairly isolated, and undisturbed by day-trippers and is good for both sailing and surfing. It is one of the most pristine beaches of Orissa. Once a humming seaport Gopalpur offers its visitors a slice of serenity in environs that are conducive to introspection and conviviality. You can still see the crumbling walls and pillars of the jetty, witness to its past glory of commercial activity. The backwaters of the Blue Bay enhance the beauty of the quiet beach.

Taptapani - is a bubbling hot spring that is located in the hills west of Gopalpur. The waters are believed to have medicinal properties. The water is channeled to a pond nearby to facilitate fascinating baths. The beauty of the rolling tribal inhabited hills is an added bonus and it is a great winter splurge.

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CHILKA

Located southwest of Puri, Chilka Lake is Asia's largest lagoon dotted with islands and noted for the many migratory birds like osprey, grey-legged geese, herons, cranes and flamingoes, which flock to the nestling sanctuary in winter. The shallow lake, about 70km long and averaging 15km wide, is separated from the sea by a long low sand bar. These shallow waters enclose an immense area of marshes, lowlands and islands. Wildlife abounds on some of the larger islands and surrounding hills and sandy stretches. Fauna to be seen include the chital, black buck, monkey, fishing cat, mongoose and porcupines. At the channel meeting the sea, dolphins can be seen cavorting playfully. Snakes, turtles and lizards inhabit the surrounding beach area and wooded undergrowth.

Kalijai Island, Honeymoon Island, Breakfast Island, Birds Island, Nalabana (Island of Reeds) and Parikud Island are some of the important and interesting spots inside the lake. The Island of Kalijai is popular for its temple dedicated to Goddess Kalijai who is venerated by the local fisher folk. This island plays host to a huge fair on 'Makar Sankranti' held annually in the month of January. The large fishing community adds flavour to the lake with their traditional colourful sailboats bobbing expertly across the water, reminiscent of the ancient maritime heritage of Orissa. The Island of Nalabana, which has a varied flora and fauna, forms the core of the Chilka sanctuary and happens to be the central point for the migratory birds.

Chilka is worth visiting the year round, however, the winter months, when the air reverberates with the din of the birds, are the nicest times. The atmosphere is just serene and undisturbed amidst the blue expanse of water on one side and an evergreen range of hills on the other.

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KONARK

The magnificent Sun Temple at Konark is the culmination of Orissan temple architecture and one of the most stunning monuments of religious architecture in the world. It is 36km from Puri and 64km from Bhubaneswar. It was constructed in the mid-13th century, but little is known about its early history. Konark was an important port from early times and was known to the geographer Ptolemy in the 2nd century AD. Just why this amazing structure was built here is a mystery. A popular legend relates that Samba, the son of Lord Krishna, was afflicted by leprosy brought about by his father's curse on him. After 12 years of penance, he was cured by the sun god Surya and it is in his honour that he built this temple. Scholars however feel that Raja Narsimhadeva I of the Ganga dynasty built it in 13th century AD to celebrate his victory over the Muslims. The temple fell into disuse after it was desecrated by one of the envoys of Mughal Emperor Jahangir in the 17th century. Today it is located 3km from the sea, but originally the ocean came almost up to its base. Until fairly recent times, in fact, the temple was close enough to the shore to be used as a navigational point by European sailors, who referred to it as the 'Black Pagoda'.

The entire temple is designed in the shape of a colossal chariot, carrying the Sun God. The temple is a brilliant chronicle in stone, with impressive sculptures. Equally breathtaking was the scale of the temple, which even today, in its ruined state, makes one gasp at first sight. Every aspect of life is represented here and the erotic imagery depicts the sublimation of human love manifested in countless forms. Scenes from court, civic life and war are also done with great precision. Now protected under the World Heritage List, the temple's interior was filled up in 1903 AD by the then British Lt. Governor of Bengal, to save it from deterioration.

Archaeological Survey of India Museum - located just outside the temple enclosure, house sculptures and carvings found during the excavation of the temple.

Nav Graha - or the Nine Planets shrine is located just outside the temple walls. It has a 6m-chlorite slab that was once the architrave above the main entrance of the jagmohan (assembly hall). It bears carved seated figures representing the nine planets

Konark Beach - located 3km away from the temple along the Puri road, is very picturesque and you can get the glimpses of the local fishing fleet at work. The sunrise at this beach is a feast for the eyes. It is also an ideal site for a spot of sunbathing.

Around Konark -

Kuruma - located about 8km from Konark, is a small village but an important site of Buddhist archaeological discoveries. Recent excavations have thrust this little village into the limelight with the discovery of antique images of the Buddha seated in Bhumisparsa Mudra along with the image of Heruka. Scholars are of the opinion that this was one of the sites containing Buddhist stupas as described by the Chinese traveller Hiuen Tsang.

Ramachandi - is a beautiful spot, 7km away. It is located at the confluence of the river Kushabhadra and the Bay of Bengal and is the presiding deity of the Konark region. The Marine Drive here is an ideal place for picnics.

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PURI

Located about 60km from Bhubaneswar, Puri is one of the four dhams (cardinal centres of Hindu pilgrimage), the others being Badrinath in Uttar Pradesh (north) Dwarka in Gujarat (west) and Rameswaram in Tamil Nadu (south). Puri is the eastern dham. Washed by the sea and embraced by causarina fringed beaches Puri's religious life revolves around the Jagannath Temple and its famous Rath Yatra (Car Festival). It is possibly one of the very few religious sites, which combines the outdoor pleasures of sea and divine beaches with the religious sentiments of 'darshan'.

According to tradition Puri was once a thickly wooded hill inhabited by the Sabaras (Pre-Aryan and Pre-Dravidian tribes of the Austric linguistic family). Over the centuries, Puri has been known by many names - Nilgiri, Niladri, Nilachal, Purushottam, Sankhakshetra, Srikshetra, Jagannath Dham, and Jagannath Puri. It is thought that Puri was the hiding place for Buddha's tooth before it was spirited away to Kandy in Sri Lanka. There are similarities between the Rath Yatra festival and the annual Kandy perahera (procession).

Jagannath Temple - is the distinctive temple that makes Puri one of the dhams. The temple is dedicated to Jagannath, Lord of the Universe, who is an incarnation of Vishnu. It was built in 1198 by Chodaganga to commemorate the shifting of his capital from south to central Orissa. It stands in a compound on the Nilgiri Hill, and is surrounded by a 20ft high wall, within which lie several smaller shrines. A traditional porch, shrine, hall of offerings and a pillared hall of dance, form the rest of this temple. The conical tower of the temple is 58m high, topped by the flag and wheel of Vishnu it is visible from far out to sea. The central jagmohan or assembly hall has the images of Jagannath along with those of his sister Subhadra and brother Balbhadra. The curious images are carved from tree trunks, in a childlike caricature of human faces. The temple is closed to non-Hindus, but they can observe from the roof of the library that is located opposite the temple.

Gundicha Mandir - or the Garden House (also known as Aunt's House), is a small sanctum in which the images of the gods reside for the seven days of the Rath Yatra. The walls enclose a garden, in which the temple is built.

Beach - though one of India's holiest pilgrimage centres, Puri is also known for its attractive coastline that has gifted it with some fine beaches. The beachfront is wide, and ideal for beach sports. The sea can, however, be rough. Swimming here is recommended only in the company of lifeguards, who can be distinguished by their characteristic yellow conical straw hats. Sunrise and sunset on the seas of Puri are awesome spectacles, and visitors can ride the waves in catamarans. The beaches are ideal for sunbathing.

Rath Yatra - or the Car Festival is one of India's greatest annual events that takes place each June or July. It commemorates the journey of Lord Krishna from Gokul to Mathura. The images of Jagannath, Subhadra and Balbhadra are brought out from the temple and dragged in colossal wooden raths or chariots down the wide Grand Road to the Gundicha Mandir over 1km away. Once they reach the Gundicha Mandir, the gods take a week-long summer holiday before being reloaded onto the cars and returned to the Jagannath temple, in a virtual repeat of the previous week's procession.

The other festival related to the Car Festival is Nava Kalebara. This is an immensely significant religious ritual, wherein the idols of Jagannath, Balbhadra and Subhadra are disposed off and new images made out of specially sanctified Chandan (sandalwood) and Neem trees, within strictly prescribed regulations. This is done at intervals of 8, 11 or 19 years or combinations of those numbers depending on various astrological occurrences. The old ones are buried at a site near the northern gate of the Jagannath temple.

Around Puri -

Balighai - 8kms from Puri, is a causarina fringed beach located at the mouth of the river Nuanai. It is a popular picnic spot

Raghurajpur - is an artists village, located 10kms from Puri famous for its Pattachitra and Talapatra paintings. No village is more involved in preserving India's priceless skills than Orissa's Raghurajpur with its thatched, brick, houses on high plinths with sit-out platforms and artists busy at work. Pattachitra paintings are done on specially prepared cotton cloth, which is coated with a mixture of gum and chalk and polished, before natural colours are applied. Talapatra is the adaptation of an unusual art form to the techniques of virtually imperishable palm-leaf manuscripts. Gods, goddesses, heroes, mythical beings grow as stylus cuts into a yellow-green strip of palm leaf. Dried, the leaves become as hard as slats of wood, the figures permanently engraved on them. Though the arts were originally inspired by religious themes, the artists have responded to changing demands and have begun to handle secular subjects with the same painstaking finesse.

Pipli - located 23km from Puri on the junction of the Konark, Bhubaneswar and Konark roads, this village is famous for its exquisite applique work, which depict the essence of Oriya culture. The colourful material is used to make bedspreads, awnings, canopies, garden and beach umbrellas, wall hangings, shoulder and hand bags and so on. The cocktail effect of the colours is certainly a feast for the eyes.

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