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Sikkim
The Last Shangrila

Area: 7096 sq. km
Population:
406,457
Capital:
Gangtok
Main Languages:
Nepali and Sikkimese
Best time to visit:
September to May

Small but beautiful, Sikkim is situated in the eastern Himalayas. It is spread below Mount Khanchenjunga (8534m), the third highest mountain in the world and revered by the Sikkimese as their protective deity. For many years, it was regarded as one of the last Himalayan 'Shangri-las' because of its remoteness, spectacular mountain terrain, varied flora and fauna and ancient Buddhist monasteries. It is separated by the Singalila range from Nepal in the west, Chola range from Tibet in the northeast and Bhutan in the southeast. Rangit and Rangpo rivers form the borders with the Indian State of West Bengal in the south. On its west is also the massive 31km long Zemu glacier. It ranges from sweltering deep valleys a mere 300m above sea level to lofty snow peaks such as the Khanchenjunga at 8000m. Various explorers and mountaineers have claimed to have seen Yeti or its foot prints in the vicinity of the mountain and its glacier- "The abominable snowman" has its place in folklore.

Sikkim's botanical and zoological affluence is truly impressive. The varieties of birds and butterflies in Sikkim is matched only by incredible diversity in the animal and botanical world, nourished by unique and dramatic geographical features. The lower altitudes are sub-tropical and abound in some of Sikkim's more than six hundred orchid varieties, sprays of cardamom fruit orchards and terraced rice paddies. Amidst the grandeur of the mountain peaks, lush valleys, fast flowing rivers and hills, Sikkim offers her visitors a rare and singular experience. Within a matter of hours one can move from the sub tropical heat of the lower valleys to the cold of the rugged mountain slopes that reach up to the area of perpetual snow. Wrapped in mists and clouds, a garden state with an incredible variety of rhododendrons and a host of other flowers

Sikkim was inhabited in pre-historic times by three tribes namely Naong, Chang and the Mon. The Lepchas who entered Sikkim around the 13th century absorbed them completely. The Lepchas are a tribal people thought to have migrated from the hills of Assam or possible even from South-East Asia. They were in fact the children of nature, and worshipped nature spirits. They still constitute about 18% of the population. Tibetans began immigrating into Sikkim during the 15th century to escape religious strife between various Buddhist orders. The Nyingmapa order was introduced in Sikkim by three Tibetan Lamas and it was these men who consecrated the first chogyal or king. In the face of the waves of Tibetan Immigrants, known as Bhutias, the Lepchas retreated to remote areas.

In 1835, the British, seeking a hill station as a rest and recreation centre for their troops and officials, persuaded the chogyal to cede the Darjeeling area in return for an annual stipend. Further British interference in the affairs of this area lead to the declaration of a protectorate over Sikkim in 1861 and delineation of its borders. Keen to develop Sikkim, the British encouraged emigration from Nepal. The British treaties with Sikkim passed to India in 1947 after Independence. But Sikkim remained an independent kingdom until 1975, albeit under a treaty which allowed the Indian government to control Sikkim's foreign affairs and defence. However, following a period of political crises and riots in the capital Gangtok, the last chogyal Palden Thondup Namgyal was eventually forced to ask India to take over the country's administration and Sikkim became the 22nd Indian State.

Communities, cultures, religions and customs of different hues intermingle freely here to constitute a homogeneous blend. Ethnically Sikkim has three main communities: Lepchas, Bhutias and Nepalese. In urban areas many plainsmen have also settled and they are mostly engaged in business and government service. Because of the development activities in the state, like the construction of roads, bridges and buildings a small part of the population consists of migrant labourers from the plains and Nepal.

Permits and General Information -

FOREIGN NATIONALS require a Restricted Area Permit to visit even areas that are unrestricted for Indian Nationals. Indian Embassies abroad, Representatives of Government of Sikkim at Delhi, Calcutta and Siliguri and some other offices have been authorized to issue restricted area permits to foreigners. Foreign nationals are permitted to visit Gangtok, Rumtek, Phodong and Pemayangtse on the basis of their visas for a period of 15 days. Foreigners are also permitted to trek to Zongri provided they are in a group of four or more. They are also permitted to visit the Changu lake and the Yumthang valley provided they are in groups.

INDIAN NATIONALS do not require any permit to visit unrestricted areas in Sikkim, like Gangtok, Rumtek, Pemayangtse, Yoksom, Phodong etc. However to visit restricted areas under army control, like Changu and Yumthang, Indian Nationals are required to obtain an Inner Line Permit (ILP) from Sikkim Police at Gangtok. Besides Changu and Yumthang, Indian Nationals are not permitted to visit other restricted places in Sikkim. Only under special circumstance visits to other restricted places in Sikkim is permitted but permission is required to be sought from the Home Department, Government of Sikkim. Although the Dzongu area of Sikkim does not fall in the restricted area, a permit from the north district Collectorate at Mangan is required to visit.

For Trekking too, permit is required in addition to the normal tourist permit and these are issued at the permit office in Gangtok or from the Government of Sikkim Resident Commissioner in Delhi.

How to Reach -

The nearest airport is Bagdogra in West Bengal, which is 124km and approx. 5hrs drive from Gangtok. There are regular flights that link Bagdogra with Calcutta, Guwahati and Delhi. The two closest railway stations are Siliguri (144km) and New Jalpaiguri (125kms) connecting Calcutta, Delhi, Guwahati, Lucknow and other important cities. Gangtok is connected by road to Darjeeling, Kalimpong, and Siliguri and also to all the district headquarters within Sikkim.

GANGTOK

The capital of Sikkim, Gangtok, which means 'High Hill', sits on a long ridge overlooking the Ranipul River in East Sikkim. Gangtok only became the capital in mid-19th century (previous capitals being Yuksom and Rabdentse). Owing to its proximity to the Tibetan border entry to most of East Sikkim by foreigners is prohibited. However, the region does encompass Gangtok, which is included on the standard tourist permit. The setting is spectacular with fine views of the Kanchanjunga range from many points in the environs of the city.

There are different altitudes in the city itself and the Pagoda like beautiful houses here are more or less scattered and nestled in parks and the green of the trees. The wonderful scenery here is the main attraction. The crowded Naya Bazaar (New Market) on MG Road and the colourful Lal Bazaar selling some unusual local fruit and vegetables, are where all the town's commercial activity is concerned. Away from the bustle, there are many serene areas and quiet back alleys, which remain virtually untouched.

Places to See -

Tusk-La-Khang - is the Royal Chapel that lies behind the former Royal Palace of the Kings of Sikkim. It is the Buddhists principle place of worship and assembly and the repository of a large collection of scriptures. The main shrine of worship is interesting in terms of its architecture and lavish decorations with woodcarvings and murals. It houses the statues of Buddha, Bodhisattvas and Tantric deities. Formerly, all the religious functions were observed here and the royal marriages and crowning of the kings of the state took place in its precincts.

Enchey Monastery - situated on a hilltop about 2km northeast from the city centre, it was built in 1840 during the reign of Thutob Namgyal. Later during the reign of Sikyong Tulku (1909-10), the present monastery was built in the shape of a Chinese Pagoda. Literally meaning a 'High Peaceful Place', it is really a quite and calm place. Icons of gods and goddesses are housed here. The place also has a nice library and a fine collection of dance masks. Following the Nyingmapa order, it has around 100 monks. The annual Puja (prayer ceremony) is celebrated with dances on the 18th and 19th days of the twelfth month of the lunar calendar and every year around January "Chaam" or religious masked dance is performed here.

Namgyal Institute of Tibetology - it is one of the finest institutions of its kind in the world and research scholars on Buddhism and Tibetology make a pilgrimage to this place from all over the world. It was established in 1958 and built in traditional style. This unique institute promotes research into Mahayana Buddhism and the language and traditions of Tibet. It has one of the world's largest collections of books and rare manuscripts on Mahayana Buddhism, many religious works of art and a collection of beautiful, finely embroidered silk thangkas (Tibetan cloth religious paintings). There are also relics of monks from the time of Mauryan Emperor Ashoka, examples of Lepcha script, masks, ceremonial and religious objects. This is a sacred place and footwear should be removed before entering.

Orchid Sanctuaries - surrounding the adjoining Namgyal Institute of Tibetology and itself enclosed by a peaceful forest is the Orchid Sanctuary is a place where you can see many of the 454 species of orchids found in Sikkim. The best times to visit the sanctuary are March to early May and the end of September to the beginning of December. There is another orchid sanctuary called the Orchidarium located along side the Rani Khola, a tributary of the Teesta River. On the top of the Ridge there is a Flower Exhibition Centre featuring orchids, seasonal flowers and bonsai. It's open from April to June and September until late November.

Chorten & Gompa - the gold apex of the huge white chorten, surrounded by prayer flags, is visible from many points in Gangtok. Next to it is a Gompa for young Lamas with a shrine containing huge images of Padmasambhava and his manifestation Guru Snang-Sid Zilzon. As at other Buddhist Gompas, the chorten is surrounded by prayer wheels.

Around Gangtok -

Rumtek Monastery and Dharma Chakra Center - about 24km west of Gangtok, on the other side of the Ranipul Valley this huge and wealthy monastery. It is the seat of Gyalwa Karmapa, the head of the Kagyupa order of Tibetan Buddhism. The main monastery is a recent structure built in the 1960'S by his holiness the late 16th Gyalwa Karmapa when he took refuge in Sikkim after the Chinese attack. Standing in one of the attractive lower valleys with fluttering prayer flags, the monastery is strictly according to the traditional architectural style of the monastery at Chhofuk at Tibet, with typical monastic paintings and intricate woodwork. Outside the monks may be seen chanting prayers in their quarters or catch some younger ones playing football in the field! It houses some of the worlds most unique art objects, ancient manuscripts and icons. The annual religious dance is held here on the 28th and 29th day of the Tenth month of the lunar calendar.

About 2kms away, just beyond the Dharma Chakra Centre is the rebuilt 300-year-old Rumtek monastery, which was originally built by the fourth chogyal. His Holiness the 16th Gyalwa Karmapa lived in this monastery till the completion of the Rumtek Dharma Chakra Center. It houses a stone slab said to possess the footprints of great Buddhist teacher Padmsambhava.

Pemayangtse Monastery - literally meaning 'Perfect Sublime Lotus', is about 112km west of Gangtok and is located in West Sikkim. Standing at a height of 2085m and framed on two sides by snowcapped mountains, it is Sikkim's second oldest and most important Gompa. It was built during the reign of 3rd chogyal Chador Namgyal in 1705 and has been reconstructed several times. This monastery belongs to the Nyingma order and all other Nyingma monasteries in Sikkim are subordinate to it. The walls and ceiling of the large prayer hall have numerous thangkas and wall paintings and there is an exceptional collection of religious artworks including an exquisite wooden sculpture on the top floor depicting the heavenly palace of Guru Rimpoche. The place has a certain aura about it. Take an early morning walk to the rear of the monastery to see a breathtaking sunrise in perfect peace. The main festival of the monastery is on the 28th and 29th day of the Twelfth month of the Tibetan calendar, normally corresponding to the month of February.

Tashiding Monastery - located in West Sikkim and about 145kms from Gangtok, it lies nestled on the top of a hill that looms up between the Rathong and Rangit rivers. This gold topped monastery is considered to be the holiest of Buddhist Gompas in Sikkim. Even the sight of Tashiding is thought to bring blessing. Founded around 1716, by Ngadak Sempa Chembo during the reign of the 3rd chogyal Chakdor Namgyal, it belongs to the Nyingmapa order. Numerous stones with high-class carvings of mantras can be seen around the monastery. There are also many chortans dedicated to some chogyals and some religious personalities of Sikkim. Thousands of Buddhists congregate here to take part in a festival held in every spring to drink water from the sacred pot, which has never run dry for over 300 years. The sacred ceremony of Bumchu is held here at midnight of the 14th and 15th of the First Tibetan month.

Phodang Monastery - located in North Sikkim about 28km from Gangtok, this monastery follows the Kagyupa order. It is a fairly recent structure, although the original Gompa here was founded in 1740. After the 16th Karmapa fled from Tibet and before he established himself at Rumtek, this was the most important of Sikkim's Kagyupa Gompas. It possesses the old mural paintings and has around 260 monks. Like Rumtek the main annual Puja is performed on the 28th & 29th days of the tenth month of the Tibetan Calendar when the religious dances are performed. It has been recently renovated, but the old one, the Labrang Gompa is still there. Opposite the Gompa is a small community of nuns who belong to the same order

Trekking in Sikkim - Sikkim offers a number of fascinating trekking routes to enterprising trek enthusiasts. The main trekking area is the Dzongri area of West Sikkim. An added attraction is that dzos (cross between a cow and a yak) will carry your gear instead of porters. The trekking routes pass through beautiful villages, which will give an insight into the tribal people's lifestyle. New trekking routes are opening in West and North Sikkim. Trekking permit is required in addition to the normal tourist permit

 


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