Area: 238,566 sq. km
Population: 132 million
Capital: Lucknow
Main Language: Hindi & Urdu
Best time to visit: October to March

Literally meaning the northern province, Uttar Pradesh is the third largest state in the country. It is surrounded by Tibet and Nepal in the North, Madhya Pradesh in the South, Haryana, Delhi and Rajasthan in the West and Bihar in the East. Most of Uttar Pradesh consists of the vast Ganges plain, an area of awesome flatness, which often floods dramatically during the monsoon. Often referred to as the 'Hindi Belt' or the 'Cow Belt', the State has been most dominant state in Indian politics and culture since Independence, producing over half of India's prime ministers. This is partly because it is also the most populace state of the country and partly because the region plays a central role in the religious landscape of the Hindus. The Ganges River, which forms the backbone of the State, is the sacred river of Hinduism and two of Hinduism's most holy towns are in the state, namely Varanasi and Allahabad (Prayag), which is also one of the venues of the Kumbha Mela that is held once every 12 years.

Over 2000 years ago the state was part of the Mauryan Emperor Ashoka's great empire. More recently it was a part of the Mughal Empire and for some years Agra was its Capital. After the British took over the state was known as United Province when Agra was merged with Avadh but was renamed Uttar Pradesh after Independence. Uttar Pradesh is also a place of major importance to Buddhists, for it was at Sarnath, just outside Varanasi, that the Buddha first preached his message of the middle way.

Agra
Allahabad
Jhansi
Kapilavastu
Kushinagar
Lucknow
Mathura
Sravasti
Varanasi

AGRA

The City of the Taj is an educational and business centre known for its craftsmen and handicrafts. In the great epic Mahabharata the region of Agra is described as 'Agraban' and it was an integral part of 'Braj Bhoomi' or the land of Lord Krishna. Concrete history outlines the origins of Agra to 1475 AD when it was under the reign of Raja Badal Singh. However, Agra came into limelight during the rule of the Afghan King Sikandar Lodhi, who had made it the capital of his empire. Later in 1526 AD the Mughal Emperor Babar took upon himself the task for rendering Agra, a unique character and beauty of its own. The visionary that he was and a great patron of the arts, he brought in a change in the culture and lifestyle among the people of Agra, which then brought forth some of the finest craftsmen, artists, statesmen, warriors and nobility, this part of India had ever witnessed. The golden age of Agra's history thus began to set in. The next few hundred years witnessed the rise of the pomp and pageantry of three great Mughal monarchs, Akbar, Jahangir and Shahjahan, all of whom lavished on this city, their love and riches to transform the land into one of the great centers of art, culture, learning and commerce. Marble and soft-stone inlay work, carpet and leather goods are some important traditional crafts of the city.

Places to See -

Taj Mahal - situated on the banks of the Yamuna River, this masterpiece in marble built on a sandstone base is a monument to love and beauty. Shahjahan built it in the memory of his beloved wife Mumtaz Begum. There are tombs of Mumtaz and Shahjahan within the mausoleum. The construction started in 1631 a year after Mumtaz's death, it took 22 years in the making and an estimated 20,000 people worked to complete this enchanting mausoleum.

Agra Fort - is situated by the side of Yamuna River. The great Mughal Emperor Akbar commissioned the construction of the Agra Fort in 1565 AD although additions were made till the time of his grandson Shahjahan. The forbidding exteriors of this fort hide an inner paradise. There are a number of exquisite buildings like the Moti Masjid, a white marble mosque akin to a perfect pearl, Diwan-i-Am (Hall of Public Audience), Diwan-i-Khas (Hall of Private Audience), Musamman Burj, where Shahjahan died in 1666 AD, and Sheesh Mahal (Palace of Mirrors). Jahangir's Palace within the fort complex contains evidence of Bengali and Gujarati architecture.

Tomb of Itmad-ud-daullah - was built by Empress Noor Jahan, the wife of Shahjahan in memory of her father Mirza Ghiyas Beg during 1622-28 AD. It is a small tomb but made of splendid marble construction that is considered to be the forerunner of the Taj Mahal. The craftsmanship foreshadows that of the Taj Mahal. It was here that 'pietra dura' the inlay work on marble, so characteristic of the Taj was first used.

Chini Ka Rauza - was constructed by Afzal Khan, a high official in the court of Shahjahan. Decorated by glazed tiles on the façade, the structure clearly depicts the Persian influence in architecture.

Dayal Bagh - is the headquarters of the Radhaswami sect of Hinduism that founded in 1861. On the sprawling lawns here, is a beautiful marble temple under construction for almost 100 years now. It is also known as Swami Bagh.

Ram Bagh - is believed to be India's first Mughal Garden designed by the founder of the Mughal dynasty Emperor Babar in 1526, It is said that Babar was temporarily buried here before being permanently interred at Kabul in Afghanistan.

Mariyam's Tomb - is a unique tomb in red sandstone built in 1611 AD in the memory of Emperor Akbar's Christian wife, Mariyam. The tomb has some exceptional carvings.

Jama Masjid - was constructed in 1648 AD by Shahjahan's daughter, Jahanara Begum in memory of the famous saint Sheikh Salim Chishti. This building, with a rectangular open forecourt is a wonderful assimilation of Iranian architecture.

Around Agra -

Sikandra - located 10km from Agra on the Agra-Delhi road, is the mausoleum of Mughal Emperor Akbar. Construction started by Akbar and was completed by his son Jahangir in 1613 AD. The tomb is a splendid example of the combination of Hindu and Muslim architecture and represents Akbar's philosophy and secular outlook.

Fatehpur Sikri - perched atop a rocky ridge 37 km west of Agra, lies this abandoned capital of the Mughals. It was built by Akbar during 1564 AD and was the first planned city in Indo-Islamic style. A sonless Akbar visited the village of Sikri to seek the blessings of the Muslim saint Sheikh Salim Chishti. The saint prophesied the birth of three sons to him and soon thereafter was born Prince Salim, later to become Emperor Jahangir. In gratitude for the blessing Akbar decided to create imperial residences in Sikri, which would function as a joint capital with Agra. As a mark of his faith and his recent victories, he named his new city Fatehpur Sikri. However, the capital was abandoned after 14 years due to shortage of water.

Akbar was a keen builder and the plan of Fatehpur Sikri reveals an architectural mastermind at work. The city is built in red sandstone and is a beautiful blend of Hindu and Islamic architectural elements. Each important edifice here represents a type by itself. Notable among them are the Buland Darwaza (Great Gateway), Diwan-i-Khas (Hall of Private Audience), Panch Mahal (5-storeyed Palace) and Birbal's Bhawan (the home of one of Akbar's ministers). The homes of Akbar's wives, the Hindu Jodha Bai's palace, the Christian Mariyam's mansion and the Turkish Sultana's Mahal Ankh Micholi (Hide and Seek) are some of the other fascinating buildings to be seen. The beautiful marble tomb of Sheikh Salim Chishti attracts thousands of devotees. Today it's a perfectly preserved Mughal city built at the height of the empire's splendor.

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ALLAHABAD

Allahabad is among the largest and holiest cities in Uttar Pradesh. It stands at the confluence of two of India's holiest rivers, the Ganga and the Yamuna. Sangam, as the confluence is called, is the venue of many sacred fairs and rituals and attracts thousands of pilgrims throughout the year. This number swells to millions during the world-famous Kumbha Mela. A third mythical river, the Saraswati, believed to flow underground towards the Sangam, gives the confluence its other name 'Triveni'.

Hindu mythology relates that Lord Brahma, the Creator, chose a land on earth on which three rivers would flow in to a quiet confluence. Brahma also referred to it as Tirath Raj or the 'King of all pilgrimage centres'. Recorded evidence also exists in the revered scriptures, the Vedas and Puranas and the epics, Ramayana and Mahabharata, of this holy place formerly called Prayag. The earliest Aryan settlements were established here and it was also the capital of Guptas and a favourite with Mughal Emperor Akbar. Akbar founded the present city in 1575 AD and named it 'Illahabas', which has now become modern Allahabad. The monarch realized its strategic importance as a waterway landmark in North India and also built a magnificent fort on the banks of the holy Sangam. Later it became the provincial capital and an important cantonment during the British days. It was also on the forefront during the days of India's independence struggle. The chequered history of Allahabad with its religious, cultural and historical ethos also gave rise to several renowned scholars, poets, writers, thinkers, statesmen and leaders. Today it is important religious, historical and cultural centre.

Places to See -

Allahabad Fort -built by Mughal Emperor Akbar in 1583 AD stands on the banks of the Yamuna near the confluence site. In its prime, this massive fort was unrivalled for its design, construction and craftsmanship. This huge, majestic fort has three magnificent galleries flanked by high towers. There is an 11m high Ashokan Pillar of polished sandstone in the premises dating back to 232 BC. The pillar has several edicts and a Persian inscription of Emperor Jahangir inscribed on it, commemorating his accession to the throne. Other attractions are the Saraswati Kup, a well, said to be the source of the legendary Saraswati River and Akbar's Hindu wife Jodha Bai's Palace. At present the fort is used by the army and only a limited area is open to visitors.

For pilgrims, the most important place inside the fort is the Patalpuri temple, an underground temple famous for the Akshaya Vat or the immortal Banyan tree. The immortal tree has found mention in the description of several ancient scriptures, the epic Ramayana, writers and historians like the famous Chinese traveller Hiuen Tsang. The tree stands in a deep niche above an underground shaft, which is said to lead to the Triveni.

Sangam - The Triveni Sangam is the meeting point of three rivers Ganga, Yamuna and the legendary Saraswati. A colorful Magh Mela is held every year in January/February, which continues for a month. The area around Sangam is a medley of tents and temporary shelters. Emperor Harsha is credited with having made it such a colourful affair. Once every twelve years, the Magh Mela is celebrated as the famous Kumbha Mela, a festival held once every 12 years. During these festivals millions of pilgrims assemble here to bathe and earn merit. Boats to the Sangam can be hired at the ghat immediately east of the fort.

Khusro Bagh - is an extensive Mughal garden with the mausoleum of Prince Khusro, Emperor Jahangir's son. On either side of his mausoleum are the smaller tombs of his mother and sister. The sad story of Prince Khusro whose tomb stands in the centre is intriguing. He was killed by Jahangir, his own father as Khusro was too clever and popular and hence, too much of threat to Jahangir`s throne.

Bhardwaj Ashram - is said to be the hermitage of Sage and teacher Bhardwaj of the epic Ramayana. This seat of religion and learning continues its notable tradition as Allahabad University, which is situated on the Ashram site.

Anand Bhawan - formerly the home of the Nehru Family, it is now preserved as a Museum. This two-storied mansion with a beautiful garden houses memorabilia and personal belongings of three national leaders Pandit Moti Lal Nehru, Pandit Jawahar Lal Nehru and Mrs. Indira Gandhi.

Museum - Some valuable archaeological specimens are stored. The presents, which were received on different occasion by Pt. Jawahar Lal Nehru, the first Prime Minister of India, are preserved here carefully.

Allahabad Museum - has a good collection of sculptures, especially of the Gupta era.

Muir College - built in 1874, this is an excellent mix of Gothic and Indian architectural elements. It has an arcade quadrangle, which is dominated, by a 200 feet minaret tower in cream coloured sandstone from Mirzapur with marble and mosaic floors. The domes of the Indo-Saracenic structure are clad in Multan glazed tiles.

All Saints Cathedral - also called the Patthar Girjaghar (Stone Church), is a magnificent cathedral, designed by Sir William Emerson in 1870 and consecrated in 1887. It is one of the finest Anglican Cathedrals in Asia. The marble altar here is decorated with intricate inlay and mosaic work.

Hanuman Mandir - located near the Sangam, this temple is unique in North India, for its supine image of Hanuman, the monkey god. Here the idol of Hanuman is seen in a reclining posture. When the Ganga is in spate, this temple gets submerged.

Mankameshwar Temple - situated near the Saraswati Ghat, on the banks of Yamuna, this is one of the famous Shiva Temples of Allahabad.

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JHANSI

Although Jhansi has played a colourful role in Indian history, most visitors to the town today, go there simply because it is a convenient transit point for Khajuraho. It is the gateway to the Bundelkhand region that was once a stronghold of the Chandela kings but lost its importance after the eclipse of the dynasty in the 11th century. It rose to prominence again in the 17th century under Raja Bir Singh Deo, the Maharaja of Orchha who was a close associate of the Mughal Emperor Jahangir. However, its greatest claim to fame is its fiery queen Rani Laxmi Bai, who led forces against the British in 1857, sacrificing her life to the cause of Indian independence. A new dimension has been added to this historic city with the introduction of the Jhansi Festival, held every year in February/March. It offers a fine opportunity to enjoy the arts, crafts and culture of the region.

Places to See -

Jhansi Fort - was built in the 17th century by Raja Bir Singh on top of a hill as an army stronghold. Within the fort are the Karak Bijli tank and also a museum, which has a collection of sculpture and provides an insight into the history of Bundelkhand.

Rani Mahal - located near the fort, this was the Palace of Rani Laxmi Bai. It has now been converted into a museum and houses a collection of archaeological remains of the period between 9th and 12th centuries AD.

Government Museum - has a collection of weapons, statues, dresses and photographs that represent the Chandela dynasty and a picture gallery of the Gupta period. There are also terra cottas, bronzes, manuscripts, paintings and coins.

Around Jhansi -

Barua Sagar - located about 24km away on the road to Khajuraho, this is the site where the Marathas fought the Bundelas in 1744. There is a large lake created about 260 years ago when Raja Udit Singh of Orchha built the embankment. The fort here is picturesquely located on a hilltop and commands an excellent view of the lake and surrounding landscape.

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KAPILAVASTU (PIPRAHWA)

Identified today with ancient Kapilavastu, modern Piprahwa was the ancient capital of the Sakya clan whose ruler was the father of Lord Buddha. Buddha is also referred to as the Sakyamuni. The Sakya domain was one of the sixteen independent principalities of the 6th century BC. Prince Gautam, as Lord Buddha was then known, left his palace in Kapilavastu at the age of 29 and revisited it 12 years later, long after he had attained enlightenment.

Today, Kapilavastu comprises of several villages, chief among them being Piprahwa and Ganvaria. A large stupa stands at the ancient site, which is said to have housed the relics of Lord Buddha. The presence of these relics is testified by an ancient Brahmi inscription discovered at Piprahwa.

Places to See -

Stupa Complex - is the main archaeological site, which was discovered during the excavations in 1973-74. The seals and inscriptions over the lid of the pot discovered refer to Kanishka, a great patron of Buddhism who built the biggest Vihara at Kapilavastu and renovated the main stupa here.

Palace Site - excavations carried out here indicated the ruins of the palace of King Shuddhodhan, the father of Lord Buddha. It is said to be the place where Lord Buddha spent the first 29 years of his life.

Around Kapilavastu -

Lumbini - located 86km away and situated across the border in Nepal, Lumbini is the birthplace of Lord Buddha. Buses ply till the border from where the remaining 26km has to be covered by private vehicle.

KUSHINAGAR

Kushinagar, one of the principal centres of Buddhist pilgrimage, is the place where Lord Buddha breathed his last and attained Mahaparinirvana. The credit for bringing this ancient site to light goes to General A. Cunningham and A.C.I. Carlyle, who, after excavating the site in 1861, established its antiquity for the first time. Later, between 1904-12, several excavations conducted by the Archaeological Survey of India at Kushinagar confirmed its identity.

The monuments of Kushinagar are situated in three distinct groups comprising the main site of the Nirvana Temple, the central stupa and surrounding monasteries, the Mathakuar shrine to the southwest, and the Ramabhar Stupa a kilometer to the east.

Places to See -

Nirvana Stupa - is a huge brickwork stupa, exposed by Carlyle in 1876. It stands at a height of 3 m. A copper vessel was unearthed at this site. It bore an inscription in ancient Brahmi, which stated that Lord Buddha's remains had been deposited here.

Nirvana Temple - houses the over 6 m long statue of reclining Buddha. The image was unearthed during the excavations of 1876. Carved from Chunar sandstone, the statue represents the dying Buddha reclining on his right side. An inscription below dates the statue to 5th century AD.

Mathakuar Shrine - situated near the Nirvana stupa, it contains a black stone image of Buddha in the bhumi sparsha mudra that was recovered here. It is said that the last sermon by Lord Buddha was given here.

Ramabhar Stupa -rising to a height of 49ft, marks the site where Lord Buddha was cremated. In ancient Buddhist texts this stupa has been referred to as Mukut-Bandhan Vihar.

Chinese Temple - the special attraction here is a beautiful statue of Lord Buddha.

Japanese Temple - has a beautiful Ashta Dhatu (a composition of eight metals) statue of Lord Buddha, which was brought from Japan.

Kushinagar Museum - contains the finds that were excavated at the site.

Around Kushinagar -

Gorakhpur - located about 51 km away is known for the Rahul Sankrtyayan Museum, which has an excellent collection of thangka paintings and relics of the Buddha. There is also a Water Sports Complex and the Gorakhnath Temple dedicated to Sage Gorakhnath after whom the own is named.

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LUCKNOW

Lucknow, the capital of Uttar Pradesh, extends along the banks of River Gomti. As per legend this territory was presented by Rama, the hero of the epic Ramayana to his brother Lakshman after they returned from their exile. It was then named Lakshmanvati and over the centuries became Lucknow. The Nawabs of Avadh gave the city its present shape and the creator of present Lucknow was Nawab Asaf-ud-daula. Under them the city became known as a centre for Urdu poetry and courtly diction and reached its acme during the reign of Nawab Wajid Ali Shah who was a connoisseur of music and poetry. It was during his reign that the British appropriated Avadh.

For all its modernity, Lucknow remains true to its cultural past, impeccable manners, a courtly diction, and a love for the arts and all beautiful things. It has a considerable involvement with Urdu poetry and Hindustani Music, which is to be found every where. The city is dotted with remnants of its rich historic past in the form of mosques, palaces, mansions and mausoleums. Lucknow is also known for its elaborate cuisine and 'Chikankaari', the exquisite shadow-work embroidery on fine muslin cloth. Though the city is no longer gay and lavish as it was in the past but it is still a serene city of gardens, great beauty and Old World courtliness.

Places to See -

Bara Imambara - also known as Asafi Imambara was built in 1784 by Nawab Asaf-ud-daula, the founder of present Lucknow and is one of the architectural highlights of the era. The central hall, 55 m high is said to be the largest vaulted chamber in the world with no pillars of support. Except for the galleries in the interior, there is no woodwork used in the structure. A staircase from outside leads to a series of labyrinths which visitors are advised to visit only with authorized guides. Within the compound of the Imambara is a grand Asafi mosque. The tombs of Asaf-ud-daula and his wife are in the vast prayer hall where the festival of Muharram is observed every year.

Rumi Darwaza - is a colossal, ornate gateway said to be a facsimile of one of the gates of Constantinople. It was built by Nawab Asaf-ud-daula to create employment during the terrible famine of 1784.

Chota Imambara - or Hussainabad was built by Mohammed Ali Shah between 1837 and 1842 as a burial place for himself. It is approached through a fine garden. The Imambara has a white dome and numerous turrets and minarets. The walls of the mausoleum are decorated with verses in Arabic. Chandeliers, gilded mirrors, colourful stucco, the King's throne and ornate tazia or replicas of the tombs at Karbala adorn the interior.

Shah Najaf Imambara - this white-domed structure derives its name from the town of Najaf, about 200 km south of Baghdad where the saint Hazrat Ali is buried. It is situated on the Right Bank of Gomti River. In this mausoleum are buried Nawab Ghazi-ud-din Haider and his wives, including Mubarak Mahal, his European wife. The entrance leads to a beautiful garden. The silver tomb of Ghazi-ud-din Haider lies in the centre of the building and is flanked by the more imposing silver and gold tomb of Mubarak Mahal on one side, and another tomb on the other.

Residency - built for the British Ambassadors to the court of Avadh in 1780-1800, it was originally a very extensive and beautiful building. The main house overlooks the river and is surrounded by terraced lawns and gardens. It was a scene of dramatic events during the Mutiny of 1857. The scarred ruins tell the story of the British community besieged by the rebels. Beautiful gardens have grown around its walls that soften the wounds of war.

Clock Tower - is an imposing landmark of Lucknow. It is over 240 m in height on a base of 22 m square.

Kaiser Bagh Palace - this complex was built by Nawab Wajid Ali Shah in 1848-50. The yellow buildings on three sides of the Durbar Hall were the quarters of the ladies of the harem. In the centre stands the Baradari, a picturesque white stone edifice, which was earlier paved with silver. The Tombs of Nawab Ali Khan and his wife are nearby.

Jama Masjid - is the royal mosque, crowned by three domes and flanked by two tall minarets. It is a striking building.

National Botanical Research institute - located at Sikandarbagh, where pitched battles took place during the Mutiny of 1857, the institute garden is open to the public

State Museum / Zoo - is a favorite spot for recreation. The Museum houses a large collection of artifacts and memorabilia and is located in the Banarasi Bagh, within the zoo premises.

Picture Gallery - is housed in the Durbar hall built by Muhammad Ali Shah, located near the Bara Imambara. It has a collection of portraits of the Nawabs. The full-length portrait of the Nawabs may be seen in the second floor gallery.

Shahid Smarak - is a memorial built in the memory of the martyrs who laid their lives in the Mutiny of 1857, India's first struggle for independence.

Around Lucknow -

Deva Sharif - located 25km away is the tomb of Syed Haji Waris Ali Shah, known as Deva Sharif, is revered by both Hindus and Muslims. Devotees throng the shrine in October/November when the annual Urs of the saint is held.

Nawabganj Bird Sanctuary - located 43 km, this sanctuary attracts Siberian migratory birds. The best season to visit is between October and March.

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MATHURA

Mathura is an important place of pilgrimage. The city stretches along the Right Bank of the Yamuna and the continuous line of ghats (riverbanks) along the river makes a splendid spectacle when viewed from the opposite bank. These picturesque ghats are of great architectural, cultural and ritual interest, for devotees from far and wide. With their steps leading to the water's edge, arched gateways and temple spires they emphasize the sacred character of the town. It's history dates back to 600 BC and archaeological remains have testified its significance during the Mauryan era when it received great stimulus under Emperor Ashoka. Later, under the Kushans it became a centre of trade and learning and was practically their southern capital during the first two centuries AD. The earliest sculptural art of India, which is Buddhist in character, emerged in this region. However, the Buddhist culture disappeared completely by 1017 as many monuments were destroyed by Muslim invaders. Today, Mathura is a city of temples and shrines bustling with the thousands of devotees who come to visit the city of Lord Krishna.

Mathura is also the nucleus of Braj Bhoomi, the land where Lord Krishna was born and spent his childhood and youth before establishing his kingdom at Dwarka in Gujarat. Covering an area of about 3800 sq. km, the region today has little towns and hamlets that still reverberate with the enchantment of Lord Krishna and still redolent with the music of his flute. The region can be divided into two distinct units, the eastern part in the trans-Yamuna tract with places like Gokul, Mahaban and Baldeo and the western side of the Yamuna covering the Mathura region that encompasses Brindavan, Goverdhan, Barsana and Nandgaon.

Places to See -

Government Museum - originally founded by F. S. Growse in 1874, is today one of the leading centres for research, study and the preservation of Mathura's splendid heritage of art. The museum housed in an octagonal, red sandstone building, has the largest collection of Kushan sculptures in the country. Other attractions are terra cottas, gold, silver and copper coins, clay seals, ancient pottery, paintings and bronzes.

Dwarkadeesh Temple - situated in the heart of the city, is the most popular shrine of Mathura. It was built in 1814 by a staunch and wealthy Krishna devotee Seth Gokul Das, the Treasurer of Gwalior.

Jama Masjid - this mosque with its four lofty minarets and bright mosaic was built in 1661 by Nabir Khan, a local Governor during the reign of Mughal Emperor. It stands on the site of the ancient Kesava Dev temple. The temple was built on the site of the prison where Lord Krishna was born. Mughal Emperor Aurangzeb demolished the temple in 1669. A modern Kesava Dev temple has been built at some distance from the mosque.

Kans Qila - lying on the northern bank of the River Yamuna are the ruins of this ancient fort. It was built by Raja Man Singh, a trusted Rajput General of Mughal Emperor Akbar. It believed that Maharaja Jai Singh of Jaipur (1699-1743) had built one of his famous Observatories here but there no trace of the monument.

Vishram Ghat - is one of the best known ghats in Mathura and true to its name, Vishram mean rest. It is believed that Lord Krishna had rested on this river after killing his uncle Kansa, the tyrant king of Mathura. The Ghat is lined with elegant temples and some of Mathura's most important shrines like the Mukut Temple, Radha-Damodar, Murli Manohar, Neelkantheshwar, Yamuna-Krishna, Langali Hanuman and Narasimha temples. The Aarti that is held at the Ghat each evening is a delightful sight as little oil lamps are floated on the river.

Gita Mandir - on the outskirts of Mathura en route to Brindavan, this modern temple is embellished with fine paintings and carvings. The entire Bhagwad Gita, a section of the epic Ramayana, is inscribed on a pillar called the Bhagwad or Gita Stambh.

Kunds - no pilgrimage to Mathura is complete without a visit to its kunds (tanks). Tradition has it that there were 159 ancient kunds in all. Of these only four survive. There is the elegant Shiv Tal, the more famous Potara Kund associated closely with Lord Krishna besides the Balbhadra and Saraswati kunds.

Around Mathura -

Mahaban - located about 11km from Mathura is one of the places where Lord Krishna spent his years of childhood under the care of his foster father Nanda. Lying on the left bank of the River Yamuna, is the large shrine of Mathuranath, famous for its Chaurasi Khambha (84 pillars). The palace of Rohini, the mother of Baldeo (Balram) is now the Chhathi Palana Temple. Other important shrines include, the Shymlalji Temple, the Yogmaya Temple, Tranairatri Temple and the Mahamall Rai's palace.

Gokul - located 15km southeast of Mathura on the banks of the Yamuna River, this is the celebrated hideout where Lord Krishna was secretly brought up by his foster mother Yashodha, away from the eyes of His maternal uncle, Kansa. Gokul attained importance during the time of Swami Vallabhacharya (1479-1531) when it became a major centre of the Bhakti cult. The three oldest temples in the place are those dedicated to Gokulnath, Madan Mohan and Vitthalnath, said to have been built around 1511. The other temples include those of Dwarika Nath and Balkrishna, built in the honour of Lord Mahadev in 1602 by Raja Vijai Singh of Jodhpur. The celebration of Janmashtami, Lord Krishna's birthday in August is unparalleled for its gaiety and melas (fairs).

Brindavan - no visit to Mathura is complete without visiting Brindavan, located 10km from Mathura. It is a village, once noted for its fragrant groves, where Krishna spent an eventful youth. The name Brindavan evokes the playfulness and lovable characteristics of Shri Krishna as this was the wood where he frolicked with the gopis (village belles). Brindavan today, is noted for it's numerous temples and bathing ghats. Some of the notable temples are:

Banke Bihari Temple - built in 1864 is the most popular shrine. The image of Banke Bihari was discovered in Nidhi Van by Swami Haridas, a great Krishna devotee, belonging to the Nimbarka sect.

Madan Mohan Temple - located near the Kali Ghat was built by Kapur Ram Das of Multan. This is the oldest existent temple in Brindavan today. The temple is closely associated with saint Chaitanya. The original idol of Lord Madan Gopal was shifted from the shrine to Karauli in Rajasthan to save it from the destructive wrath of Mughal Emperor Aurangzeb. Today, a replica of the image is worshipped at this temple.

The Jaipur Temple - was built by Sawai Madhav Singh, the Maharaja of Jaipur in 1917. It is a richly embellished and opulent temple. The fine hand-carved sandstone is of unparalleled workmanship. The temple is dedicated to Shri Radha Madhav (another name of Krishna).

Shahji Temple - was designed and built in 1876 by a wealthy jeweller, Shah Kundan Lal of Lucknow. The deities at the temple are popularly known as the Chhote Radha Raman. Noted for its magnificent architecture and beautiful marble sculpture, the temple has twelve spiral columns each 15ft high. The 'Basanti Kamra', the durbar hall is famed for its Belgian glass chandeliers and fine paintings

Govind Deo Temple - was once a magnificent seven storeyed structure built in the form of a Greek cross. It is said that the Emperor Akbar donated some of the red sandstone that had been brought for the Red Fort at Agra, for the construction of this temple. Built at the astronomical cost of one Crore rupees in 1590 by his general Man Singh, the temple combines western, Hindu and Muslim architectural elements in its structure.

Shri Krishna-Balram Temple - built by the International Society for Shri Krishna Consciousness (ISKCON), is one the most beautiful temples in Brindavan today. Adjoining the temple is the samadhi of Swami Prabhupada, the founder of the ISKCON sect.

Baldeo - is 20km southeast of Mathura. It derives its name from the famous temple dedicated to Balram, the elder brother of Lord Krishna. The temple was built by Shyam Das of Delhi 200 years ago. The main image in the sanctum is that the Baldeo or Balram and his consort Revati. Near by is the brick lined tank, the Khir Sagar or Balbhadra Kund, from where the original image housed in the temple was found.

Goverdhan - situated 26km west of Mathura on the state highway to Deeg is a famous place of Hindu pilgrimage. It is located on a narrow sandstone hill known as Giriraj, which is about 8km in length. The young Lord Krishna is said to have raised the mighty mountain Giriraj on His little finger to shield the people of Braj from the wrath of Indra, the rain god. There is a large masonry tank known as the Mansi Ganga, which is said to have been brought into existence by the operation of the divine will. Its enclosures were built by Raja Bhagwan Das of Amer in 1637 and embellished by Raja Man Singh, who built a long flight of steps leading up, from the end of the tank. Close by is the famous red sandstone temple of Haridev and the Kusum Sarovar with exquisitely carved chhatris (cenotaphs) of the members of the royal family of Bharatpur, who perished whilst fighting against the British in 1825. Noteworthy is the beautiful chhatri of Raja Surajmal, which has fine frescoes illuminating his life and vividly depicting durbar (court) and hunting scenes, royal processions and wars.

Radha Kund - located 5km north of Goverdhan is a large lake, where Lord Krishna is said to have killed Arista, the bull demon. To commemorate this event, every year on the 8th day of the dark half of the month of Kartik (October/November) a large fair is held here.

Barsana - located about 50km to the northwest of Mathura is a village situated at the foot of a hill that is named after Brahma. It was the home of Krishna's beloved, Radha Rani. Temples dedicated to the divine couple ornament the four elevations of the hill. The main among them is the Radha Rani Temple, more fondly referred to as the Ladliji Temple. It is the most beautiful temple at Barsana and was built by Raja Bir Singh Deo of Orchha in 1675. Adjoining it is a modern marble temple. The other three shrines are the Man Mandir, Dargah and Mor Kutir temples. The area between the hill housing the Radha Rani Temple and the adjoining one is known as the Sankari Khor and is the venue of an annual fair held in the month of Bhadon (July/August). Barsana is also famous for its 'Lathmar' Holi celebration of the festival of colour that is unique to this town.

Nandgaon - lying about 9km north of Barsana on the road to Mathura, this was the home of Lord Krishna's foster father, Nand. On the top of the hill is the spacious temple of Nand Rai, built by the Jat ruler Roop Singh. The other temples here are dedicated to various manifestations of Krishna like Narsingha, Gopinath, Nritya Gopal, Girdhari, Nand Nandan and Yashoda Nandan. A little beyond is the Pan Sarovar, a large lake with masonry ghats along its sides. Legend has it that this was the place where Krishna used to take his cows for water.

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SRAVASTI

Sravasti is one of the eight most important pilgrimages of Buddhists. While Lord Buddha walked from Kapilavastu to Sarnath in Uttar Pradesh, renounced the world and attained Mahaparinirvana, he left behind a trail of footsteps which are revered till today. Sravasti is one such place. According to legend, it is here where Buddha confounded his critics by making them witness to a miraculous million-fold self-manifestation seated on a thousand-petalled lotus, as fire and water emanated from his body. The prophet of peace is also said to have spent 25 rainy seasons here, teaching people the essence of his gentle creed.

The religious character of Sravasti derives also from the fact that Lord Mahavira, the founder of Jainism, visited the town frequently. Apart from this, the city also finds mention in the epics Ramayana and Mahabharata as a prosperous city of the Kosala Kingdom. The mythological king Sravasta, is said to have founded it. Essentially a temple town, Sravasti will take one back in time, bring somewhat closer to the soul of a civilization which has been there, for five thousand years, or more.

Excavations at Sravasti have also revealed two pillars raised here by the Mauryan Emperor Ashoka, who was largely responsible for spreading the word of Buddhism. The pillars, which lie at the eastern gate of Jetavana, mark Ashoka's pilgrimage to the city.

Places to See -

Maheth - is an area of about 400 acres and has been identified with the remains of the city proper. Excavations have exposed the massive gates of the city, ramparts and also the ruins of other structures, which testify to the prosperity of ancient Sravasti. Pakki Kuti and Kacchi Kuti were probably Buddhist shrines before they were converted into Brahmanical temples.

Sobhanath Temple - located in Maheth, is believed to be the birthplace of the Jain tirthankar (apostle) Sambhavnath and is revered by Jain pilgrims.

Saheth - is an area of 32 acres that lies about a quarter of a mile to the southwest of Maheth. This was the site of the Jetavana monastery. It became an important place of pilgrimage, adorned with numerous shrines, stupas and monasteries. The stupas belong mostly to the Kushan period, while the temples are in the Gupta style. The remains date from the Mauryan era (3rd century BC) to the 12th century AD. One of the earliest stupas probably dating to the 3rd century BC contained relics of the Buddha. A colossal statue of the Buddha was also found here which is now preserved in the Indian Museum, Calcutta. The Emperor Ashoka visited Jetavana and the Chinese pilgrim Hiuen Tsang mentions two Ashokan pillars here.

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VARANASI

Varanasi, the City of Lord Shiva, is situated on the bank of the sacred Ganges River and is one of the holiest cities of India. Hindu pilgrims come to bathe in the waters of the Ganges, a ritual that washes away all sins. The city also known as Banares is a magical city where the most intimate rituals of life and death take place in public on the city's famous ghats (riverbanks). It is this accessibility to the practices of ancient religious tradition that captivates many visitors. In the past the city has been known as Kashi and Banares, but its present name is a restoration of an ancient name meaning the city between two rivers, the Varuna and Assi. It has been a centre of learning and civilization for over 2000 years and claims to be one of the oldest living cities in the world. The old city, situated on the western bank of the Ganges in a labyrinth of alleyways, does have an antique feel but few buildings are more than a couple of hundred years old due to the marauding Muslim invaders and the destructive tendencies of Mughal Emperor Aurangzeb.

Lord Buddha further enhanced its eminence by preaching his first sermon after attaining the enlightenment at Sarnath located 10km away from Varanasi. The early history of the city as gleaned from Buddhist literatures speak of a constant struggle between the dynasties of the Kosalas and Mallas for its possession. In later times it suffered defacement as Muslim invaders destroyed many of its temples.

The Ganges at Varanasi - The grandeur of the sacred Ganges River here cannot be expressed in words. It is said that bathing here removes all ills and sins. A boat ride early in the morning on the holy river is an unforgettable experience. A chance to see the Burning Ghats were cremations are conducted and the Bathing Ghats were devotees take a dip in the holy water and offer prayers.

Ghats - for a distance of nearly 5km the stone steps of 70 ghats and more lead from a steep bank down to the holy Ganga river. Thousands of pilgrims flock here daily to take a dip in the sacred waters and to worship the sun. Near Manikarnika, the chief burning ghat of Varanasi is the Charanpaduka pedestal where Lord Vishnu's footprints are preserved in marble. The other important ghats are Asi Ghat, Lala Misi ghat, Tulsi Ghat, Dandi Ghat, Hanuman Ghat, Ahalya Bai Ghat, Munshi Ghat, Mir Ghat and many more.

Places to See -

Vishwanath Temple - dedicated to Lord Vishnu who is manifested here as Vishveswara (Lord of the Universe). Rani Ahalya Bai Holkar of Indore erected this temple in 1776. It is located in the heart of the city and surrounded by shops where business seems to go round the clock. This is the most sacred of all shrines in Varanasi. It was built next to the site of the old temple that was destroyed by Mughal Emperor Aurangzeb who built the Gyanvapi Mosque on its ruins. Between the temple and the mosque is the famous Gyan Kut or the 'Well of Knowledge'. There are many smaller temples around notable among them are the Ganesh Temple, Annapurna temple and the Shanischar Temple.

Bharat Mata Temple - is dedicated to Mother India and not any member of the Hindu pantheon. It was inaugurated by Mahatma Gandhi in 1936. It has a splendid relief map of India carved in marble.

Durga Temple - was built in the Nagara style of North Indian architecture. This temple is unique for the special construction of its spire. Monkeys abound in and around the temple giving it the popular name as Monkey Temple.

Tulsi Manas Temple - is dedicated to Lord Rama and is situated at the place where the great medieval seer, Tulsi Das lived and composed the epic 'Ramcharitmanas' expounding the history of Lord Rama.

Banares Hindu University - located 11km away, it is one of the largest residential universities in Asia. The campus is spread in about 2000 acres and departments of Sanskrit, Indian Art, Culture and Music. Pandit Madan Mohan Malviya founded this University for the revival of ancient Hinduism free from the prejudices of caste, creed and colour. This institution has grown into one of the great Universities of India. Bharat Kala Bhawan, the Art Gallery has a good collection of paintings and other objects of art.

Around Varanasi -

Sarnath - located about 10km from Varanasi, it is one of the important Buddhist centres. It is the site where Lord Buddha had preached his first sermon or in religious language, set in motion the Wheel of Law (Maha-Dharmachakra-Pravartan) enshrining the principles of his teaching into laws. 200 years later, in 3rd century BC, the Mauryan Emperor Ashoka who spread the Buddha's message of love and compassion throughout his vast empire, built massive stupas, viharas and monasteries making it the centre of the Buddhist world. Several Buddhist structures were raised at Sarnath between 3rd century BC and 11th century AD and today it presents the most expansive ruins amongst places on the Buddhist trail.

There are two ancient stupas for ceremonial public worship and their present names are Dhamekh and Dharmarajika. Dharmarajika was dismantled in 18th century by Jagat Singh of Varanasi. Ashoka erected several monuments here. Chaukhandi Stupa comes first. Akbar repaired the same in order to commemorate his father's visit to Sarnath.

Places to See -

Chaukhandi Stupa - is the first monument one encounters as one enters Sarnath. Originally built by Emperor Ashoka, it is a lofty mound of brickwork whose square edifice is surrounded by an octagonal tower.

Dhamek Stupa - is the most remarkable structure at Sarnath. It is a cylindrical stupa, 28m in diameter at the base and 44m in height, built party of stone and partly of brick. The stone facing the lower part is adorned with delicate floral carvings of Gupta origin.

Mulagandha Kuti Vihar - is a modern temple erected by the Mahabodhi Society. It has excellent frescoes made by Kosetsu Nosu, Japan's foremost painter and is a rich repository of Buddhist literature. The ancient Mulagandha Kuti temple is among the brick ruins of Sarnath.

Sarnath Museum - has a rich collection of Buddhist sculptures and numerous Buddha and Bodhisattva images that are considered amongst the finest specimens of Buddhist art. It also has the magnificent Lion capital, India's National Emblem

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